The island town of Millport commands a sheltered bay on the Island of Great Cumbrae off the Ayrshire coast.  In the eighteenth century, the bay provided an anchorage for the revenue cutter and the town developed some importance.  The coming of the steamboat provided a more ‘genteel’ location for the summer visitor than Largs, Dunoon or Rothesay and the town has maintained this position of understated popularity to this day.

In Lumsden’s Steamboat Companion of 1820, the entry barely mentions Millport.  “On the West side of the large Cumbray, is the village of Millport, the annual retreat of bathers; and opposite to it, the small Cumbray. Both these islands are remarkable for remains of antiquity; for some singular formation and arrangement of rocks; and for various excavations of curious and grotesque appearance. On the smaller island is a lighthouse of recent erection, and of great use to the navigation of the frith.”

Swan’s Select Views of the Clyde in 1830 refers to “this pleasant little watering place,” that has become a “considerable resort for sea-bathing” with daily communication by steamboat with Largs, Greenock and Glasgow.

Millport around 1830.  One of M’Kellar’s steamboats can be seen

As I have done and will do with other resorts I have have recorded here the text of a visit made in 1840 and first published in the Glasgow Constitutional.

MILLPORT.—July 27.

“The Great Cumbrae, as well as its little brother, the “Wee,” was an unknown land to us until last Saturday. We had passed the islands twenty times without a thought, or if they did come into our mind, it was only to remark on their rocky sterility, or the richness of the humour and self-complacency of the clergyman, who used to pray regularly in Millport for the “Big and Wee Cumbraes, and the adjacent islands of Great Britain and Ireland!” Little did we imagine there were so many fine houses, splendid rocks, green fields, prolific gardens, and romantic dells contained within these apparently bleak and barren islands.

“This being the extent of our stock of knowledge with regards to Millport, &c., we bore down the river on Saturday with the Robert Burns, to have a sight of the untrodden shore. Captain—civil, active, and attentive. A band on board—a dreadful nuisance, but it was “the Fair,” and we had just to allow the sound of the base drum, and the dirlls of the small one, with the shrill notes of the fife “that played sweetly,” to go in at the one ear and out at the other; how could we do otherwise? Landed at Largs, and learned from Mr. William Young, the jolly and good humoured steam-boat proprietor, a gentleman who knows the history of all the steamers, from 1812 to 1840, with accurate precision, that there were to be boat, sack, and foot races at Millport, same afternoon, and that Dr. Cairnie and all the town were going over in the Victor to see the sport. This was a favourable opportunity to start, and we accordingly took our place and were over in a crack. Millport is really a situation which at first sight, and after better acquaintance, strikes a person as just the sort of calm, simple, cozy spot, where, without ceremony or palaver, one could luxuriate in quietness—at least for a season. We felt as if quite abroad for a moment, unknowing and unknown, we might spend an hour in admiration of the beauties we already perceived the place possessed in a high degree. Having no greater liking, however, at any time, for scenery—for rocks, and glens, and waterfalls, and sea—than we have for honest men, and that best and noblest of created beings, woman! We were most agreeably surprised and pleased to find, on the sands of the bay of Millport, after the boat races, a collection of Glasgow gentlemen, with their wives and daughters, all alive to the pleasure of the moment, and the fun expected from a sack race! We had by this time discovered, that if we had been cast on a strange land, some of the visitors were not altogether unknown to us. Unfortunately it came on to rain, and most of the company left the ground, a few only remaining to witness the sport, and the strange figures some of the racers cut when emancipated from the flour sacks in which they had been cribbed up.

“Millport has a fresh, healthy look, and its general appearance, with the houses encircling the bay, is very much the same as some other watering stations, Oban, for instance. The small rocky islands which stud the bay are peculiar, however, as are also the very remarkable natural dykes, which rise in some places to a considerable height, and run through the larger Cumbrae, and into the sea to the opposite coast of Ayrshire. On the shore of Cumbrae, looking over to Fairley, one of these dykes (the Deil’s Dyke, as it is popularly called,) rises to a great height, and assumes, at one point, a very correct representation of a Lion couchant. Through this part there is a large hole, and the tradition amongst the islanders is, that a certain period, long gone past, the great enemy of man, when walking abroad on the earth, finding business increasing, and the fording of so many seas rather disagreeable, determined to build a bridge across from Argyll to Ayrshire. The work had proceeded so far, but it appears something had occurred to offend his Majesty—trade had perhaps got flat in the interim—and he gave the foundation of the span about to be thrown over a tremendous kick with his cloven foot! Hence the ragged and ill-shapen hole alluded to above.

The Lion Rock at Millport

“Of a piece with this story with regard to the watch-towers or castles which stand at Port Crawford on the Ayrshire coast, and Little Cumbrae opposite. The sea is betwixt two and three miles broad here, yet true it is and of verity that there was only one hammer to break the stones for both castles, and when one mason had used it for a time he just threw it across to the other! All we can say of the matter is just this—they must have excelled in putting the hammer in those days! These castles were built in the time of Robert Bruce, no doubt to keep watch that no more inroads of Danes or Norwegians should take place on our shores; and if they again dared (after the drubbing they had previously got at Largs) that speedy notice might be given of the event. The castles are very strong. The one on the Little Cumbrae is in a good state of preservation. The walls are 6½ feet in thickness. The hall is spacious, 26 feet long by 14½ broad. Underneath is the donjon keep, but the stair is considerably dilapidated.

“Another version of the above stories is, that old Satan had the building of Port Crawford, or Portencross Castle, while his son, young Nick, was employed on that in the Little Cumbrae. It would seem the youth had been a more expert mason than his dad, for he completed his castle first. The elder Clootie then threw over his hammer and desired his son to commence the formation of a bridge across to the lands of Hunterstone. Like a dutiful boy, young horny lost no time in laying the foundation for the great span on both sides of the water, and he was just preparing to throw over the arch when his most worshipful father paid him a visit of inspection. Shockingly displeased with the work, the “meikle deil” knocked his heel through part of the erection, which, to this day, retains his name.

“One of the vessels belonging to the Spanish Armada was lost off Point Crawford, and one of her guns is still to be seen there.

“There are many eminences in Cumbrae where the most splendid views can be obtained. Here we now sit on a bold promontory in the great island; and we are given to understand by a friend at our side, who lately traversed Pompeii and the immortal City, that should we move forward six steps, the tumble will be down the face of a perpendicular rock one hundred feet high! Of that fact we shall be exceedingly mindful. We have seen some good views in our day but such a sight as that before us is always exciting and sublime. How glassy and still is the sea betwixt us and the interesting Island of Bute. Never did Goatfield look so magnificent, or Ailsa sit with more calm composure in the mists of the ocean! See the hills of Cowal rising in dignified grandeur to the clouds from the bottom of Loch Strevan! There, too, is the City of Glasgow steamer, coming gallantly round the rock, on her way to that mighty metropolis from which she derives her name, and from whence issued the first-born of those splendid smoking palaces which now, Comet-like, move along the surface of the ocean—from Indus to the Pole!

“It is rather surprising that so few strangers have houses of their own in and about Millport. The place itself is delightful, and the inhabitants, notwithstanding the influx of strangers which has of late taken place, are in a state of primitive simplicity. Everything is here cheaper than almost everywhere else, and you may have a job performed by a native porter, or any of the boatmen, for one-fourth of the charge made at some other watering-places. The lodging-houses are comfortable, and, so far as we are able to judge, we thought we could discover a sort of identity in manners and amiability of character betwixt many of the visitors and the natives of the port.—“Fowls of a feather flock together.”—Nearly all the Glasgow gentlemen we saw in the place were just such as could associate, and be happy together, without any of that unnecessary pride and vain ostentation which characterize some excessively dull, foolish people, in this little world of ours, and whom no one cares the toss of a timber farthing about after all.

Garrison and College, Annan 1864

“The finest marine villa in Millport is, of course, that belonging to the Earl of Glasgow, and called “the Garrison,” from the embrasures in the wall by which the house is surrounded. The gardens behind are exceedingly good, and do much credit to the taste and skill of Mr. Stalker, the Earl’s gardener. In the list of visitors at present located in Millport, Bailie Bain, our late excellent and highly respected Magistrate, by common consent, stands pre-eminent. He resides in a finely-situated house, overlooking the bay, called Millburn. We would not allude to anything political here, no, not for the world—but Bailie Bain shall again triumph in the Second District! That’s flat! Bailie Thomson of Glasgow has also a fine house, in a delightful situation overlooking the bay; the garden is laid off with much taste and skill. Next we have Rosemount, Miss Carmichael, cozily embowered amongst the trees; and in another fine spot, the house of Mr. M‘Arthur of Greenock. Mr. Wishart of this city has also very nearly finished finished a capital new house, in the English cottage style, and certainly one of the most tasteful in the island. The lodging-houses in the village, which run along the shore, are all well filled with the wives and families of the gentlemen we have enumerated below.—Good health and long life to them all.

The Garrison

“Amongst the “bein” dwellings in the town are those of Mr. Lennox and Capt. Ritchie, a fine old sailor, who has crossed the “Atlantic’s broad wave” no less than fifty times. That of Provost Ritchie is also snug and comfortable. As he is so meritoriously active about the town’s affairs, we hope he will keep an eye on the ashpits scattered about, and also prevent bathing on Sunday at improper hours, and at all hours in front of people’s houses. How we should have delighted to see the savages who took the liberty to dip at the steps near the quay last Sunday and Monday mornings treated to three smacks each of a man-of-war’s cat!

“The principal tradesmen and merchants in Millport are, Mr. James Stewart, Messrs. Allan & Logan, general grocers and lodging keepers. These gentlemen make the finest bread in the West of Scotland; and we can say, from experience, that their lodgings are comfortable,—with capital breakfasts. Next we have Mr. Alexander Hunter, Mr. Robert Shearer, Mr. Andrew Spiers, &c. &c.

“Governor Robert Simpson is a frequent visitor to the island, and his title is never called into question. We have heard that it was conferred thus:—On an occasion of visiting the light-houses, long ago, the Magistrates and Trustees were pleased to hear themselves welcomed by an incessant firing of a cannon in the Large Cumbray. It was agreed on board, that whomever it was that displayed so much good feeling, should be dubbed Governor of the Island. Mr. Simpson was the man, and, of course, the Governor.

“Amongst the visitors we observed Dr. M‘Leod, Messrs. Daniel Chisholm, Robert White, John Mitchell, John Gullan, Wm. Reid, James Bell, Wm. Hannah, John Galloway, John Muir, Jas M‘Lure, John Crooks, Alex. Kerr,——Shanks, Robert Bryson, James Scott, Robert Smart, James Taylor, &c. &c. &c.—a pretty goodly company of decent Glasgow people in this snug little island!

“On the rising ground above the bay and the town which partly encircles it, stands a fine new church, of which the Rev. Mr. Drummond, a very excellent man, is the pastor. This is the second established church that has been built in Millport within the last forty years. The manse is a very comfortable-looking-house, and stands near the old churchyard. The church tower is as yet unprovided with a clock and a bell, but we hope this great want will soon be supplied. In the wall of a new house pleasantly overlooking the Bay, and possessed by our esteemed friend Mr. John Mitchell, we were surprised to observe a stone bearing the following inscription, “Built 1612—rebuilt 1803.” On inquiry we learned that the individual who had erected this house had been the purchaser of the materials of the old church. Hence the above inscription.

“Being on churches at any rate, we may notice that one of our favourite resorts at all times is the churchyard. We feel an indescribable pleasure in walking amongst the long grass, and sitting on the grey moss-covered stones of a country burying ground! This being the case, we took care to pay a visit to the churchyard of Millport. It is of considerable antiquity; one of the dates on a tombstone is 1605, and two 1628.

“The most peculiar inscription we have witnessed in any similar spot is that of the late Pastor of the parish. It must have been written by himself, and yet we cannot see the point of the thing at all. Instead of being correct, it is just the reverse of the character described. Dead men should not be allowed to indulge in such conceits, and to tell tales, especially is they are not founded on fact. Here is the Minister’s character of himself on his tombstone.

The following specimen of an inscription by a female to her husband, of date 1790, copied precisely from the stone, may show that the carver, like a true genius, despised all common rules:—

“There is a Baptist Meeting House in Millport, and the Rev. Mr. M‘Kirdy, the pastor, is highly spoken of.

“After having another splendid view from one of the picturesque hills, of which there are so many in Millport, we returned to town by the seashore. On our way we met to fine little children, a boy and a girl, evidently natives of the island, walking along. The boy was stout and ruddy, but the girl was rather thin. A lady in company, after some kindly chat inquired what they got for breakfast? The girl took speech in hand, and replied, “Bose,” (brose.) “What for dinner?” “Bose!” “And what for supper?” “Bose!”—“Dear me,” said the lady, “how is this little fellow so very stout, and you so slender, when you both get the same fare?” “Ah!” cried the girl, laughing, and patting her brother on the shoulder, “Johnny sups a’ the wumps (lumps,) and gies me the brue!”

“Great quantities of fish are caught around Millport, and Fintry Bay has long been considered the best ground on the island.—Other places, the Sheriff’s Port, and the Tan, are good, though not so much spoken of.

“Sometime ago, a vast number of pretty large birds, something like tumbler-pigeons, called Pyrrs, from their cry, used to congregate on the little rocky islands in the Bay of Millport, and it was considered a sort of unholy thing amongst the islanders to disturb them. Since the date of the steam-boat sailing, and the importation of reckless people to the island, who frequently took their eggs, these birds have now deserted the old rocks, and gone to others near the Little Cumbrae.

“There are several examples of longevity in the island, and we were introduced to a tolerable smart-looking damsel of ninety-four—Ann Boyd—who can read without spectacles, and walk to church without any assistance. There is also a merry youth, who lives just opposite the above lady; he is a butcher, and did not seem at all to relish being thought old, as he was eight years younger than Miss Ann over the way. Ann Boyd, we were given to understand, has two sisters living, and only one year betwixt each of their ages.

“The value of the property and the comfort of the inhabitants might be mightily promoted, were there a road made round the island. We do not know any place where a road could not be constructed at less expense; and we are quite sure that is a proper application were made to the Marquis of Bute and the earl of Glasgow, the thing would speedily be gone about. A drive around the island we must yet have. It would be one of the most picturesque and striking in Scotland.

“There is a magnificent view from the old light-house on the Little Cumbrae, and also from the new one, which are kept by two gentlemen—gentlemen in every sense of the word, for never is the cry of distress disregarded, or the houseless stranger refused a bield, by Messrs. Clark and Harvey.

“The original inhabitants of Millport are yet in a state of amiable simplicity. They only intermarry with each other, and will have nothing to do with the “incomers.” They keep the Sabbath as it used to be kept long ago in every country district in Scotland, and a native is rarely seen on Sunday except going to church. We trust no evil example may be able to corrupt their good manners.

“Some people express themselves in exceedingly poetical terms as compared to others. While walking near the villa of Mr. Wishart, and along the beautiful green sea-sward, an elegant English lady passed us, in company with two gentlemen. “O dear, how delightful this walk would be were the ground not so juicy!” she exclaimed. We smiled at juicy. Had the fair one been cognizant of her countryman’s description of Scottish weather, however, she would not have been surprised at the juice. “Five months of rain, four months of snow, and three months of d—d bad weather” during the year would make juicy enough ground even of the sandy desert of Sahara.

“It is a subject of complaint in Millport that there is no steam-boat to Glasgow later than eight o’clock in the morning, and it is thought one sailing in the afternoon would receive a fair share of support. [We understand this suggestion has now been acted on.]

“Previous to visiting Millport we received a very polite and complimentary letter relative to our former articles, signed “J.B.’” and giving some characteristic notices of the earl of Glasgow and Lord Kelburne. Of both father and son our correspondent speaks in terms of the highest praise, but not more highly than they deserve. Had it been at all consistent with our plan we could have wished to have given the letter of “J.B.” entire. In the very handsome notice he takes of some of our Glasgow citizens sojourning at Millport we entirely agree. No person can have a greater respect for Bailie Baird than we have, and it is well known how highly we regard the Commissioner whom the mild air of Millport has revived as completely as ever he renovated a Reubens or a Rembrant! We were happy to learn from our correspondent that there were hundreds of industrious and sober inhabitants in Cumbrae,

But we trust there will be no occasion for using hands. Their blessings are quite safe in the meantime.

“We have always understood that the natives of Largs were great sportsmen, and many of them excellent shots. It would appear, however, that they are matched to the capacity of their guns for their eminence. The marvellous properties of a fowling-piece belonging to one of the villagers is thus celebrated on a pane of glass in Mrs. Arthur’s inn:—

“N.B.—It is certainly neither polite nor courteous for gentlemen to sit with their hats on at breakfast, in a steam-boat, or anywhere else, but he truth is, we never saw a gentleman guilty of such indecent vulgarity.”

The Episcopal Cathedral at Millport, the “Cathedral of the Isles” was opened in 1851 in the east of the town and added to the skyline.  It internal appointments are described in great detail in Hugh MacDonald’s “Days at the Coast.”

Millport around 1860

Early photographs of the town are not common. Annan produced this photograph around 1868 for an edition of “Days at the Coast” and it shows a view looking west towards the harbour.

 

Looking West towards Millport Harbour in 1868 (Annan)

A closer view of Stuart Street and the Harbour can be seen in this view from a few years later.

Stuart Street and Millport Pier Head around 1870

Guildford Street is seen to advantage on a warm and sunny day where most of the doors and windows in the town are open.  The imposing position of the Parish Church is most noticeable.

Guildford Street and Parish Church around 1870

 The Wemyss Bay Railway was opened in 1864 and ran steamboats from the rail-head to Largs, Millport, Dunoon, and Rothesay.  Poor management resulted in the business collapsing and it was taken over by the firm of Gilles and Campbell.  In this photograph, dating from about 1875, two of the steamers are seen at Millport Pier.  The outer steamer is the Largs, dating from 1864 and one of the original Wemyss Bay steamers while the inner berth is held by the Lancelot, purchased by Gilles and Campbell in 1875.

Largs and Lancelot at Millport Pier (George Washington Wilson)

Millport Bay has two inlets for bathing as shown in the next photograph taken from the East.  Kames Bay, nearest the east and more sheltered, and Newtown Bay reaching back west to the Quay.

Millport from the East

The houses around the east bay are shown here in this serene view taken around 1880.

Kames Bay, Millport around 1880 (Valentine)

The remainder of the photographs are from the Edwardian era, showing some of the delights of the sea-side at Millport.

The Garrison with the Cathedral in the background

Looking along Glasgow Street from the Crosshouse

Crocodile Rock

Children on the shore

Glasgow Street looking East

Millport Sands

Stuart Street from the Harbour

Millport in 1904

There is a collection of photographs of steamers at Millport Pier in the “Siege of Millport” blog.