Portincaple from the water in 1952 (Valentine)

Situated on Loch Long, directly opposite the entrance to Loch Goil, the hamlet of Portincaple hosted a ferry of some antiquity. With the advent of the steam-boat, the ferry was a calling point and the few residents and visitors could hail vessels on the Lochgoilhead and Arrochar stations.

Greenock Telegraph, May 23, 1871

The coasters of the West Highland Trading Company were active in bringing coal and supplies to Lochlongside in the 1880s, and it was in the early 1880s that feuing was extended, coinciding with a proposal to build a railway from Helensburgh to Garelochhead and Portincaple. This eventually became a reality a decade later with the West Highland Line from Craigendoran.

Glasgow Herald, May 27, 1880

“A station is to be placed at Portincaple, Loch Long, when the West Highland Railway is completed, and a new steamer will run daily between Portincaple and Lochgoilhead, bringing the latter 40 minutes nearer Glasgow.”—Glasgow Evening Post, October 5, 1893

The coming of the railway excited the residents of Lochgoilhead with the prospect of a pier and steamboat connection to Portincaple. The correspondence from the Glasgow Herald in October 1893 gives an inkling of the feelings of the populace.

“Loch Goil steam-boat service.—Sir,—In common with ethers who travel on the Loch Goil route, I find it a, great drawback that there is no early morning boat from the head of the loch from the end of September till the end of May. If the steamboat companies cannot see their way to run a morning boat during the winter months they might at least put on a boat about the end of March or beginning of April. If it does not pay to run a morning boat all through the week, let them try the experiment of a Monday morning run. An improved service during the winter and spring months would popularise the route immensely, and materially increase the railway and steamboat traffic,—I am, &c., Alpha

“Lochgoil steamboat service.— Sir,—I heartily support the suggestion of your correspondent “Alpha,” that the steamboat company should at once arrange to put on a Monday morning service throughout the winter, leaving Lochgoilhead about 7.30. This, I am sure, from my thorough knowledge of the entire route, would be hailed as a great boon. In view of the opening of the new Highland Railway next summer, and the probable opposition which will thereby be introduced, I think the steamboat company will stand greatly in its own light if it does not bestir itself.—I am, &c., Beta.”

“Lochgoil steamboat service: Sir,—Referring to letters by “Alpha” and “Beta” regarding the above service I think the suggestion of “Beta” that a steamer should be put on leaving Lochgoilhead at 7.30 a.m. on Monday mornings is an excellent one. If the steamer leaves Lochgoilhead as that hour it might call at Carrick Castle, then run direct to Gourock; to catch the 8:30 train for Glasgow and Edinburgh. Then it would be in time to take up its daily run from Greenock at 11 o’clock. Such an arrangement would be of great service to those living in the neighbourhood of Lochgoil, and I am sure that it is only necessary to make this public want known to the genial manager of the Lochgoil Steamboat Company, and he will do all in his power to gratify it.—I am, &c., Gamma”—Glasgow Herald, October 16, 1893

“Winter steamboat service to Lochgoilhead.—Sir,—I have noticed with much pleasure the letters that have been appearing in regard to this service. The time proposed—7.30 a.m.—is, in my humble opinion, too late for a considerable number of the would-be travellers, who are, unfortunately for themselves, compelled to be on their office stools before 9.30. I hope this will catch the eye of the Glasgow and South-Western Railway directors.—I am, &c., Ledger.”

“Sir,—I notice a letter on above in your issue of Monday, signed by “Gamma,” advocating an approach to the Lochgoil Steamboat Company (Limited) to run morning and evening steamers to time, as it has just been intimated that a pier is to be constructed at Portincaple in connection with the West Highland line, and a ferry from there to Carrick, Douglas, and Lochgoil. If the Glasgow and South-Western Railway wish to retain their connection to this part of the world, they will seriously consider the advisability of putting on an evening boat on Friday and Saturday and a morning boat on Saturday and Monday. This, I am quite certain, would satisfy the most of the people who would be travelling up and down in the winter time. The railway companies could put on a steamer more easily than the Lochgoil Company could, as the crew of one of their boats is dismissed by this time, and they have only one boat on the run; while the railways could easily arrange that one of their boats, say the Chancellor, take the morning and evening run to Lochgoil, and take up another run during the day. As a young man about town, and one who requires to be in the office about 9.30, I would strongly advocate for 7 o’clock as the starting time. I have been visiting Lochgoil now, winter, spring, summer, and autumn, for the past ten years, and, to my mind, the most uncomfortable time there is the time of the best connection, viz., summer. Spring and autumn are lovely, while it is most bracing in the winter time. So as long as the Glasgow and South-Western give us a good connection there is not much chance of them being done out of Lochgoil, as the walk from Portincaple to Whistlefield is going to be very heavy, especially as there will not be much time to spare on the Monday mornings. Could a public meeting in Glasgow not be arranged?—I am, &c., Carrick Castle.”—Glasgow Herald, October 20, 1893

However, when it opened in 1894, there was no stop serving the village despite a commitment by the Railway Company to the Trustees of Luss Estates. Questions were asked in the House of Commons

“West Highland railway.—Mr Nicol asked the President of the Board of Trade to explain why the West Highland Railway Company have not made the rail and steamer connection on their system via Whistlefield and Portincaple which they are under statutory obligation to make. Mr Ritchie replied that he had communicated with the West Highland Railway Company, and learned that they were not bound to form a steamer connection with their system via Portincaple. They were, however, under an obligation to the Luss trustees to make and maintain a station at Portincaple with the consent of those trustees. The carrying out of the work had been delayed until now, and the company were at present making inquiries as to the nature and route of the traffic in order that they might be able to determine what was the best site for a station, and what accommodation would he required in order properly to serve the traffic. The company had scheduled land in the neighbourhood sufficient to permit of the construction of the station.”—Glasgow Herald, March 21, 1896

The station at Whistlefield was opened in October 1896. The trek from the station, at the top of the hill to the residences around the shoreline was a steep one and no doubt limited popularity.

Whistlefied station in 1924

There was no pier and as far as I know, no early boat for Lochgoilhead as a result. However, the summer schedules of the North British Railway did advertise connecting calls at Portincaple after Whistlefield station was opened. This tour offered a sail on Loch Long in connection with the new railway and was advertised till the beginning of the first-world-war.

The photograph below shows the steamer Duchess of Hamilton off Portincaple. Whether she is merely passing or has been hailed by the ferry is not clear. She was on excursion duties early in the 1900s.

Caledonian steamer Duchess of Hamilton off Portincaple

When Mr Cameron Corbett donated part of the Ardkinglass Estate to the Corporation of the City of Glasgow in 1905, there was renewed interest in Portincaple as a means of access to the remote area.

“Glasgow’s Mountain Park.—If Mr. Bryce’s Access to Moors and Mountains Bill had become law, the gift mountain, which Mr. Cameron Corbett, M.P., has made the citizens Glasgow, would have been less deserving of applause. Still, it is a step in the right direction, and it is something know that there is one mountain in the Scottish Highlands from which the ordinary tourist cannot turned back by gillies and keepers. The mountain, which is about one hour’s journey from Glasgow railway or steamer, is upon the peninsula which separates Loch Goil and Loch Long. It is one of the most romantic spots the West Highlands, and commands an unrivalled panorama of loch and mountain. The highest peak, about 1,800 feet, enables the spectator to behold the mighty mass of Ben Lomond, with the waters of the loch in the east; on the north Ben Cruachan and Ben Nevis; on the south the Firth of Clyde, with Bute, Arran, and the Cumbraes; and on the west Loch Fyne and the Paps of Jura. The fortunate citizen of Glasgow might travel round the globe without finding a more magnificent scene. The lofty promontory, known as Argyle’s Bowling Green, is a hard climb. In many places the crags are almost perpendicular, and yet there are neither piers nor bridle-paths—the spot being one of the most lonely and in the Highlands. Fortunately, the new West Highland Railway comes close to the shore of Loch long, and at a point called Portincaple it is intended to build a pier and start steam ferry.”—August 1905

Again there was no pier and no steam ferry. However, once the Y.M.C.A. camp was opened at Lochgoil, Mr Cameron Corbett, the honorary vice-president, gifted a motor boat, Ardgoil, to the camp. It was used for excursions and to meet parties travelling to the camp by the West Highland Railway at the jetty at Portincaple.

Ferry for Lochgoilhead at McNab’s Jetty, Portincaple

Portincaple ferry

One of the best known residents of Portincaple was Susie. Susie and her husband, “Jimmy the Rhu” were originally from Glasgow and moved to Portincaple, on the border of the Finart Estate in the 1890s. Jimmy was a hand-line fisherman and his patch was near the Dog Rock at the entrance to Loch Goil. He would fish through the night and take his catch to Whistlefied station to catch the first morning train to Glasgow to sell his catch there.

Susie’s Castle around 1910 (Stengel)

The couple’s home was an upturned boat, known as their “Castle,” and on Saturdays they would walk to Garelochhead for their provisions and end up in the Anchor Inn where they would entertain visitors with dancing or singing or regale them with their stories such as the day Jimmy caught a shark. After Jimmy died, Susie lived alone for many years with her cats and chickens, and could be greeted at her door where she would puff on her clay pipe. She died in the 1930s aged 81.

Traffic at the Portincaple ferry diminished after the railway was introduced and the spot was a quiet summer resort for families. Steamers, on their way to and from Arrochar passed by with little more than a second glance.

Marchioness of Graham passing Portincaple on her return from an excursion to Arrochar in 1952 (Valentine)

The opening of the deep-water oil terminal on the adjacent Finart Estate in 1954 brought tanker traffic to the remote spot. Oil was pumped across Scotland to the refineries at Grangemouth.

First tanker, Tank Empress, at the new oil jetty at Finart

Tanker at Finart in 1952

Ian McCrorie, Joy Monteith, “Clyde Piers,” Inverclyde District Libraries, Greenock, 1982

Iain Smart, Rod & Tricia Phillips, “Loch Goil,” Lochgoil Publishing, Lochgoilhead, 2006