The Dalmadan website has been ongoing for 10 years now, a fact that amazes me. I have managed to post at least once a month over that time, and admit that some of the material would have fared better with more time and better editing and I hope to do better in future. I have greatly enjoyed the input from comments, pointing to errors, adding to the subject matter, and suggesting new areas for research. I plan to continue writing about the Clyde and its ships and resorts, mainly in the 19th and early 20th centuries, but I also want to contribute a few more articles on the Vale of Leven.

I was born and brought up in the Vale of Leven in the 1950s and 60s, a time when the towns and villages had changed very little for half a century. It was a privilege to be able to talk to older generations who could embellish the history of familiar buildings and places. It was a simple matter to relate an old photograph of a scene to the then current state of affairs. Although I did not enjoy the study of history in school, it was this local historical material that fascinated me and led to a lifelong interest in early photography, and books about the broader area. Poetry too figured large; before photographs, poetry provided descriptions of scenes and humanity long gone, and in particular, vernacular poetry touches the very voice and soul of the people.

Dumbarton Quay and the Bridge over the Leven (Valentine)

Early photographs of the Vale of Leven are rare. In the 1880s Messrs Charles R. Gilchrist had a shop at the Fountain on Main Street, Alexandria, and began producing photographs and viewbooks, mainly addressed to the tourist trade, but also of interest to the residents of the area. This article presents sketches from photographs of scenes from an album, printed in Loporello style in four shades of grey. While lacking the detail of real photographs, the scenes capture the gist of the Vale of Leven in the mid to late Victorian years.

The album begins with views of some of the large country houses on the banks of Loch Lomond. Despite the proximity to the “Queen of Scottish Lakes,” the residents of the Vale had to travel to Duck Bay, on the West, or the Aber shore on the East to access its waters. Much of the Loch shore was in private hands and jealously guarded.

On the shore at Luss looking to Ben Lomond. The shore at Luss on the Loch was public

Luss Village

Arden House was built in 1868 by John Burnett for Sir James Lumsden, Lord Provost of Glasgow, who made his fortune in the publishing and stationery business and purchased the estate the in 1864 from George Buchanan.

Auchenheglish was built by Campbell, Douglass & Stevenson for James M‘Kenzie in 1864 When M‘Kenzie died in 1873, Henry Brock, manager of the works of John Orr-Ewing & Co., took possession. He died in 1887 leaving nearly a quarter of a million pounds in his will. The Brock family sponsored the Auchenheglish Cup, competition for which greatly enhanced the development of football clubs in the area. The also purchased Broomley House to be converted into the first hospital in the Vale of Leven

Auchendennan House was built in 1866 by John Burnett for George Martin, a Glasgow Merchant who had made his fortune in the East Indies, and had purchased the estate in 1864. He was an associate of John Henderson of Park, a well-known Sabbatarian. The house passed to a Mr Chrystal, a chemical manufacturer who added to the house in 1903. It was taken over by the Scottish Youth Hostel Association after WW2

Cameron House was built by William Spence in 1830 to replace an existing mansion on the estate of Sir James Smollett who had moved the family home from Dalquhurn to the shores of Loch Lomond. The house was rebuilt in 1865 after a fire by Alexander Smollett, and remained in the family until 1986 when it was sold and converted into a hotel.

Tullichewan Castle was built around 1808 by Robert Lugar for James Buchanan who had purchased the Tullichewan Estate from the Colquhoun family in 1792. In 1817, it passed to the Horrocks family and then to the Glasgow merchant, William Campbell in 1843. Its most famous resident was James Campbell who succeeded to the property in 1864

Balloch Bridge was designed by James Dredge and erected by Sir James Colquhoun on the toll principle in 1846. It suffered a partial collapse in 1850, and the Dredge design was supplemented by normal suspension ties. In 1885, it was condemned and replaced two years later by an iron girder structure. On the right can be seen the Balloch Inn

Balloch Castle was built around 1809 by Robert Lugar for John Buchanan, a partner in the Glasgow Ship Bank. It was acquired by the Dennistoun-Brown family in 1845. He died 1890 and Glasgow Corporation purchased the estate in 1915 at the beginning of the first world war.

When John Buchanan sold Balloch Castle, he moved to Boturich Castle that he rebuilt in 1834. On his death in 1838, it became the property of Mr Findlay, his son-in-law, and the family continued in residence until the 1980s

Jamestown Church dates from 1870 and was designed by Messrs Clarke & Bell. Beyond is the Church Hall, and farther south is Arthurston Hall

Levenbank Terrace in Jamestown was the first of the terraces in Jamestown built by Archibald Orr-Ewing, owner of the Levenbank and Milton Works to house his workers. Dating from the 1850s, it was also built to a higher standard than the Milton Terrace built in the following decade, and seen in the distance farther south in this view. On the left is Alexander M‘Laren’s clothing store with John Tweedie’s Boot and Shoe store. Tweedie lived with his mother and sister, her daughter and granddaughter above the shop. Hidden by the wall on the right is the Leigh-field of Milton Works

This view looking south on Main Street, Bonhill, shows the approach to Bonhill Bridge on the right foreground. William Menzies painting and sign making business is on the left, next to the grocery shop of John Syme. Mr Syme lived in lodgings with the Jardines at 55 Levenbank Terrace in Jamestown. On the right in the distance is Bonhill Parish Church, in the front of which is a branch of the Clydesdale Bank

Bonhill Church was designed by John Baird and replaced an older structure that was closer to the Leven in 1836

Bonhill Bridge was erected in 1836 by the local land-owner, Alexander Smollett and replaced a ferry at the same spot. It was known as the “bawbee bridge” as the toll was ½d to cross. The toll was lifted in 1895 and the bridge was replaced by a new structure three years later. Beyond the bridge are Dalmonach printworks. The building towards the front of the works with tall windows is Dalmonach Schoolroom dating from the 1830s. On the right, the distinct levels of housing in Bonhill can be seen. Nearest the river is the narrow strip of houses along the Main Street while rising above, on the raised beach, or high level, behind the Main Street is Dalmonach Farm

Alexandria Public Hall was built to house the Mechanic’s Institute and Library in 1862. Previously, the Mechanic’s Institute met in Dalmonach schoolroom. The fountain in front of the Hall was dedicated in 1879, coinciding with the extension of the reservoir at Overtoun, and helping date the scene. The shops on Bridge Street include Messrs D. Maxwell & Son, drapers, and W. M‘Kean & Son, Shoemakers.

Alexandria Main Street, looking south at the Fountain, with the spire of Alexandria Parish Church in the distance. On the left is a grocer’s shop owned by John Syme, and on the right are the premises of Messrs Charles R. Gilchrist who published the booklet from where these views are taken. Bank Street, leading to the bridge at Bonhill leads off to the left.

The Smollett Fountain in Alexandria was designed by Messrs Anderson & Macleod to honor Alexander Smollett. It took the place of an old oak tree that had served generations as a meeting place at the junction of the Main Street and Bank Street. Bank Street, in an earlier age, was known as Ferryloan

The architect of the Ewing Gilmour Institute for young men was Robert Thomson. It was gifted by William Ewing Gilmour and opened in April 1884, and cost £12,000. Originally designed for the mental recreation and moral improvement of your men in the calico printing industry, in 1927, an addition housed the offices of Bonhill Parish Council. It was the scene of many acrimonious meetings as the Great Depression descended on the Vale of Leven. It is now a library

The Free Church, Renton, was designed by George Meikle Kemp in 1845. Better known as Millburn Church, it is now a ruin

Main Street, Renton, looking north. On the right is Renton Boot & Shoe Warehouse with the drapery store of James Graham at No. 84

Renton Public School dates from the 1860s and was expanded in the 1870s. In the playground is the monument to the novelist and poet, Tobias Smollett erected in 1774, and marking the south end of the village at that time.

At the southern extremity of the Vale of Leven lies the county town of Dumbarton. Dumbarton Castle was occupied in prehistoric times. The pier was built, extending out to the dredged channel of the River Clyde, and was opened in May, 1875. It was badly damaged in a storm in 1900 and left to decay for over half a century before its final removal