The county town of Dumbarton has a long history dating back to the earliest inhabitants of Scotland. With its tall rocky volcanic plug rising at the mouth of the River Leven where it enters the Clyde, the town was a natural defensive point, leading to its name, “Fort of the Britons.” The town was made a Royal Burgh in 1222. Dumbarton became the earliest bridging point of the River Leven, a project that was first proposed in 1682 and completed in 1765, more than 80 years later. The early town itself stretched along the High Street that followed the west bank of the Leven to the Bridge; to the north was land that flooded at high tide, and to the south, approaching the Castle Rock, the ground was marshy and also susceptible to flooding.

This article is based on a random collection of prints and postcards I have amassed over the years. There is no theme, and there is no pretense to be a history, but I have added some narrative into the background of some of the material where my curiosity has been piqued. I hope that some will be of interest.

Dumbarton in 1824 (Clark)

I have this coloured engraving on my wall. It shows Dumbarton in 1824 from the north, with Dalreoch Toll in the foreground and the town on the east bank of the Leven. The bridge figures prominently as does the Castle Rock where the Leven joins the Clyde. The three distinctive cones belong to the Glassworks of Messrs Dixon. At the time this was Dumbarton’s leading industry but was going into decline as shipbuilding along the banks of the Leven was achieving some success. The spire of the Parish Church at the end of the High Street can be seen just beyond the glassworks cone that is not in operation.

Gabbarts on the Leven in 1831

Around 1790, John M‘Lachlan, a timber merchant from Banachra, near Luss, had begun building wooden sailing sloops and gabbarts on the west bank of the Leven at the Woodyard. His son, Archibald, took over the business in the early 1800s, with William Denny as his yard manager, and in 1814 began to construct the wooden hulls for early paddle steamers including the luggage boat Trusty, the first steamer of the Dumbarton Steamboat Company, Duke of Wellington, and the Loch Lomond steamer Marion.

Dumbarton Rock with an early steamboat (Daniel)

In 1817, William Denny set up a patent slip on his own account, at M‘Alesters’s yard on the east bank of the river at the Boat Vennel or Brewery Lane. This was later called the Albert Yard. He also built some hulls on the Castlegreen, below the Castle Rock, including the Rob Roy, the first steamer to provide a regular service across the Irish Sea. William Denny returned to the Woodyard in 1826.

The Woodyard in 1850 (Clark)

In the early 1820s, one of the most enterprising citizens of the Burgh, James Lang, constructed a graving dock on land east of the Parish Church and began constructing and repairing hulls for wooden steamships at the Dockyard. In 1824, in collaboration with Peter Denny, an adjoining property, immediately south of the Parish Church Yard, was used in shipbuilding, appropriately called the Churchyard. It was in this yard that many of the Dumbarton Steamboat Co.’s steamers were built, including the Leven, the first steamboat engine by the eminent Robert Napier, also a Son of the Rock.

Dumbarton Shipyard Map

The earliest photographs I have of Dumbarton date from 1865-70 and feature the Leven.

The Leven and Castle at low tide in 1865. Note the children in the mud. Navigation of the river at low tide was not easy.

Dumbarton Quay in 1868 with the Lochlomond. This was the last steamer to operate a passenger service to Glasgow.

From the Quay, in the days before the railway arrived, passengers by the morning steamer from Glasgow for Loch Lomond could enter the rear of the Elephant Inn, eat breakfast, and emerge on the High Street to catch a coach for Balloch.

Rear of the Elephant Inn from the Quay

Elephant Inn on the High Street

Dumbarton did have a pier stretching into the Clyde. Opened in 1875, the Castle Pier was too far from the town centre and the railway station to attract much business. It became a white elephant and was heavily damaged in storms over the years, notably by timbers that had broken free from curing ponds from the shipyards of Port Glasgow and Greenock. In 1900, the damage was considered not worth repair and the pier was closed and allowed to decay. It was removed in the 1950s.

The opening of the Castle Pier in 1875

The Castle Rock around 1882 with the pier on the right stretching into the Clyde 

The pier from across the Clyde around 1905

The engine of the Leven, constructed in 1824, was placed on the Castle Green at the head of the pier

The Leven’s engine

Leven gabbarts waiting on the tide in 1868. In the background on the left is the Dockyard, occupied by Messrs. Archibald M‘Millan & Son, and one of their recently built iron-hulled sailing ships, possibly the Glenavon. Beyond the sailing ship that is fitting-out, is the Leven shipyard, occupied by Messrs William Denny & Brothers the previous year.

After beginning shipbuilding on a modest scale in a yard on the west bank above Dumbarton Bridge, in 1838, Messrs. Archibald M‘Millan & Son moved to the Albert Yard, recently vacated by Mr William Denny, and then by Mr John M‘Alester. They prospered with repairs carried out on the patent slip, and expanded their shipbuilding to the extent that they had to seek larger premises, moving to the Dockyard in 1846, recently vacated by Messrs Meurice. They enlarged the graving dock to a length of 300 feet and breadth of 41 feet and made the switch to iron shipbuilding, specializing in large sailing vessels.

Coriolanus

Coriolanus in Messrs. Archibald M‘Millan & Son’s graving dock in 1876

The Coriolanus was designed for Messrs John Patton, jun., & Co., London, to trade to the India and Australia, thence to China, and from China with early teas to New York, and then home to London. Her hull design represented an almost perfect compromise between carrying capacity and speed. Her dimensions were as follows:—Length, 220 feet; breadth, 35 feet 3 inches; depth, 20 feet; tonnage gross, 1006 tons; tonnage nett, 975 tons; tonnage O.M., 1254 tons; displacement at load line, 2161 tons; area of midship section to load line, 535.44 feet. Area of sails, 2580 yards.

I will return to shipbuilding later but want to spend some time on the town, starting with the High Street. Stretching from the Parish Church in the east to the Bridge on the west, the High Street follows the curve of the river. There were various lanes or vennels leading off the main thoroughfare. Towards the river, there was the Brewery Lane towards the west end, the Quay Vennel, leading to the Quay and the Common Loan (Church Lane) at the east end. Old postcards capture much of the scene at the end of the Victorian era and a few years beyond.

The Parish Church at the east end of the High Street around 1900. The Episcopal Church is on the left.

The view from further along the High Street

From further along the High Street, again looking east to the Parish Church around 1900. On the left, the arched opening was the site King’s Arms Hotel. It was later the entrance to the United Presbyterian Church Mission Hall, built behind the High Street. On the right is the Dumbarton branch of Lipton’s Market. Gorbals born Tommy Lipton rose to the top of a grocery empire with his famous Lipton tea that was inexpensive and marketed to the masses. He was knighted in 1901.

A coloured view of the same scene.

Looking west from roughly the same spot around 1900, the curve in the street is more apparent. On the right the building is at the corner of the High Street and College Street. College Street was still known simply as the “Vennel” in the 1960s. On the left, the recessed building is the Glencairn Greit House, built in 1623. The tall spire of the Free High Presbyterian Church can be seen further down the street.

Glencairn Greit House. The figures in the foreground appear to have been added to the photograph at a later point

Another photograph, from 1904 shows a similar scene with the Glen Boot Emporium on the right.

This coloured view is from slightly further east with the entrance to College Street on the right.

The Free High Church owes its origin to the schism in the Church of Scotland in 1843 that created the Free Church of Scotland. The building was built on part of the Albert shipyard in 1864. An amalgamation of the Free Church with the United Presbyterians in 1900 created a schism in the Free Church. The amalgamation created the United Free Church of Scotland, but a minority on the Free Church disapproved and this remnant retained the title of the Free Church of Scotland. Where individual congregations were split on the matter, occupation of the church buildings became a matter of contention. The House of Lords decided in favour of the Free Church party. The Free High Church in Dumbarton was one case in dispute where the minority evicted the United Free High Church congregation, the majority, from the church manse and building.

“Before Lord Dundas.—The Dumbarton United Free High Church Case.—Answers have been lodged by the Rev. Alexander S. Inch, Lord Overton, and others, as representing the congregation of the United Free High Church, Dumbarton, to the note of suspension and interdict in which the Free Church claim possession of the church buildings now occupied by the respondents. The statements in the note as to the number of persons who have associated themselves with the complainers are denied, and the complainers are called upon to produce their list of members and adherents. The statement that the majority of the complainers’ alleged congregation of 280 persons is composed of those who were connected with the Free High Church prior to 30th October 1900 is said to be entirely unfounded. Only two of the complainers ever were connected with that congregation—one as a member and the other as an adherent—while the total number of persons who have obtained disjunction for reasons connected with the Union is 14. The statement that the remainder of the 280 were formerly connected with other Free Churches in Dumbarton is denied, and it is explained that those associated with the complainers embrace persons who were formerly connected with the Established, Episcopal, Baptist, and Methodist Churches, and persons who had no previous church connection at all. A considerable number come from the Vale of Leven, Helensburgh, and Bowling. The average attendance at the complainers’ services has been, the respondents aver, between 50 and 90 persons, including children. The hall at present used by the complainers is seated for 300, and is ample in size and otherwise suitable for their requirements. The church occupied by the respondents’ congregation is seated for about 900 people. Theirs is the largest United Free Church congregation in Dumbarton. At the time of the Union the membership was 794, now it is 924, with upwards of 200 adherents over fourteen years of age. Including children, there are about 1500 parsons connected with the congregation. The average attendance at the forenoon service is between 600 and 700, and at the afternoon service somewhat less. In the evening there is a Bible class, at which the average attendance is 400. The church halls are large and suitable for carrying on the work of the congregation, and suitable accommodation could not be found elsewhere in Dumbarton. The congregation is highly organised, and has long carried on successfully many branches of Christian work in Dumbarton. For the continuance of its work the possession of a church and of suitable halls of adequate size connected with it are absolutely essential, and if the congregation be evicted the result must be to disorganise, and to some extent to destroy, the work at present carried on. While the complainers meet together for public worship, they do not represent an organised congregation in active work, and they are not in a position to adequately utilize church and hall premises of the size of those now in question; and it the respondents’ congregation be dispossessed and replaced by the complainers, the value and utility of the premises for the purposes for which they were dedicated will be very largely sacrificed. Pending the ultimate decision of this case or the determination of an Executive Commission, such as it is anticipated will be appointed by Parliament in accordance with the recommendations of the Royal Commission, the respondents offer to the complainers the exclusive use of the old church of the United Free Bridgend congregation. That church, in point of size and otherwise, is suitable for the complainers’ requirements. Since the Union of 1900 the United Free Church congregation have expended upwards of £3400 on permanent improvements and additions upon the premises, and they reserve all claims competent for re-imbursement of or compensation for that expenditure in the event of the congregation being evicted from the premises. As regards the Mission Hall premises, situated at 54 High Street, Dumbarton, it is explained that these premises never belonged to the Free High Church congregation, but were, after the union of 1900, the subject of a gift by Lord Overtoun for behoof of the United Free High Church congregation. The old Mission Hall premises at No. 40 High Street, previously occupied by the congregation, and an adjoining tenement were conform to authority given by the General Assembly of the Free Church in May 1900, and also conform to power obtained from the Court of Session, sold to the United Free North congregation, Dumbarton, but in consequence of the action of the Free Church the sale has not yet been completed, and the price has been consigned on deposit receipt. In a separate statement of facts the respondents say that the only fundamental principle maintained by the Free Church at the Disruption in 1843 was the complete autonomy and independence of the Church in all spiritual and ecclesiatical matters and the Church’s subjection to the Lord Jesus Christ as her only Head, and to His Word as her only standard. The judgment of the House of Lords is said to have proceeded on errors in fact which are both essential and numerous. Examples of these alleged errors are given, and the respondents go on to state that it was the declared intention of the founders of the Free Church that the Church Should be entitled as she saw fit to enter into union with any other body of Christians under any name or designation which she chose to assume, and that in doing so the Church and her congregations should not forfeit their right to the properties held by them in terms of the Model Trust Deed. In becoming members of the United Free Church the respondents acted within their rights and powers, and they maintain that they have in no way lost or forfeited the rights and interests which they previously possessed in the church buildings. They have in no way departed from the view of divine truth and church government held and declared by the Free Church in 1843. The complainers have taken no steps to vindicate any pretended rights which they may claim in the heritable subjects, and hold no decree of any kind relating to them. Since 1st June 1900, 950 ordained ministers having charge of congregations of the Free Church at that data have declared and have publicly claimed and professed that they held truly and in bono fide the principles referred to in the Model Trust Deed more faithfully than the ministers of the Free Church who have adhered to and associated themselves with the complainers. While maintaining their whole rights and interests, the respondents have no desire for litigation but on the contrary, desire that the matters dealt with in this process, together with the whole questions in controversy, should be speedily settled without litigation, either by voluntary arbitration or by the action of Parliament. This desire has been communicated to the complainers. Counsel for the Complainers—Mr Christie. Agents—Simpson &Marwick, W. S. Counsel for the Respondents—Mr Orr. Agents—Cowan & Dalmahey, W.S.”—Scotsman, May 15, 1905

The evicted United Free High Church congregation led by the minister, Rev. A. S. Inch, his wife and Lord Overtoun making their way to the Burgh Hall.

“Dumbarton Free High Church.—There was some excitement in Dumbarton yesterday, when the local Free Church congregation took possession of the Free High Church. The evicted United Free congregation gathered in High Street at the church door, and altogether a crowd of some two thousand people witnessed the Free congregation gather to their service. They had an attendance in Church of over 400. When the bell ceased, the Rev. A. S. Inch, the evicted minister, stepped onto a chair in the midst of the crowd, and offered up a prayer. He then read a long and formal protest, and thereafter his people marched in procession to the Burgh Hall. The Free Church service was conducted by the Rev. J. K. Cameron, Brodick. In the course of his sermon he said they would expect him to say something in regard to the very peculiar circumstances under which they were assembled. He regretted the scene outside the house of God that day, and regarded it as nothing short of Sabbath desecration. No doubt they thought they were doing God’s service, but it was a sorry sort of demonstration, and when leaders of the Church were foremost in it, it made it all the more sorry. As to their protest he had read it. It was a slander on them as a congregation and as a whole simply amounted to this, that because the United Frees were a big multitude, it was might that was to rule, and not right. Might the Lord deliver them from that as a nation. A congregation of about fifteen hundred assembled in the Burgh Hall. Principal Rainy preached. He said he thought and earnestly believed that at the time of the Union God had constrained them to get into the ship and go over to the other side. What had followed as a consequence was that they had fallen into the hands of men, and they did not know how far it might go. The whole material which they had for purpose of serving God had been taken away from them. He did not want to exaggerate, but he thought they had been called on to undergo a remarkable and extraordinary experience. Let them turn to the Lord, and consider how they stood with Him in regard to this which had come to pass. In the first place, let them recognise in this an element of chastisement, because chastisement was one of their privileges, and they could not do without it. Let them suppose God saw that by His goodness they were beginning to be too much taken up with themselves, their missions and funds, and their success and dexterity in carrying through the Union, and it had pleased Him to bring them to their senses. Then let them try to realise how wonderful was God’s mercy. Suppose they were stripped permanently bare, there would be no cause to lament if God’s mighty power came amongst them to make them the Christians they should be. But they must see that their machinery was not taken away from them wrongly, and he asked them to pray for themselves, their minister and office bearers, and principally for their churches.”—Scotsman, June 26, 1905

The congregation later built a new church on Latta Street.

As ship-building in Dumbarton grew in the 1850s, new worker-housing was constructed along the west bank of the Leven, north of the bridge and stretching to Dalreoch, at Dennystown in West Bridgend.

Parade marking the opening of the “New Town” or Dennystown in 1853 (Illustrated London News)

As noted above, the West Bridgend United Presbyterian Church was situated on the main road between the Bridge and Dalreoch. The original building dated from 1793. It was replaced by a new building in 1860, retained as the Church Hall when a third church was built in 1888.

The original church at West Bridgend

The West Bridgend United Presbyterian Church of 1860 with the new church of 1888 behind.

Housing on the Main Road, West Bridgend

South of the bridge, the hill overlooking the Clyde, Kirktonhill, was notable for villas of wealthy Dumbartonians, the Dixons, and the Dennys. These were built mostly in the period between 1850 and 1870.

Peter Denny’s mansion, Helenslee, was converted to accommodate Keil School in 1926 after the original school in Southend, Kintyre, was destroyed by fire.

James Denny’s Levenford later became the headquarters of Dumbarton District Libraries.

In 1885, the Dixon Estate, was gifted to the town by the shipbuilders Perter Denny and John M‘Millan, as Levengrove Park. The Dixon mansion of Levengrove had been demolished a few years earlier.

Levengrove Park

A great place for children—as long as they were well-behaved

The Castle Rock looming in the background

Levengrove Park

Levengrove Park

Creative use was made of the old quarry on the hill. Dixon Bowling Green

Dixon Steps

On the east end of the High Street, the road leading to the north was Church Street, dominated by the Burgh Hall and Denny Institute.

Dumbarton Academy was housed for a time attached to the Burgh Halls. A new Academy building was opened at Towhead in 1914 

Denny Institute dating from 1890. The ground floor contained a library and reading room while upstairs there were rooms for meetings, billiards, and a kitchen

The old Municipal buildings at MacLean place was replaced by a new edifice in 1903, and later became the Sheriff Court.

When the railway reached Dumbarton in 1850, the track skirted the town to the north, lying alongside an area that flooded at high tide. The railway was amalgamated into the North British Railways, and the original station was replaced by a new, larger station when the Caledonian Railway reached the town in 1896, and the Dumbarton and Balloch Joint Line operations began.

New Municipal Buildings from the south east

Municipal Buildings from the east

The new Municipal buildings were built on the site of the Collegepark Estate, and completed in 1903. The estate had directly abutted onto the railway station. The College Bow, a remnant of the Collegiate Church of St Mary, endowed by the Countess of Lennox in the 1450s, had been moved to a site on Church Street, forming the entrance of the Academy, to accommodate the building of the railway in 1850. It was again moved to a site on the east side of the municipal buildings in 1907.

The 1st Dumbartonshire Rife Volunteers were among many regiments that fought in the South African War in the early 1900s. At the battle of Colenso, Major William Baptie, C.M.G. of the Royal Army Medical Corps was awarded the Victoria Cross for his gallantry in attending the wounded under fire and in helping bring in the body of Lieutenant Roberts, the son of the C.-in-C. in South Africa. Major Baptie was the son of ex-Provost Baptie of Dumbarton. A memorial to the fallen was unveiled on October 8th, 1904

“Dumbartonshire heroes.—A memorial cross in honour of local volunteers who lost their lives during the South African Campaign was unveiled in Dumbarton on Saturday. The cross, which has been erected in the grounds at the Municipal Buildings, stands 16 feet high, and is of Braemar granite, while the base is of gray Aberdeen granite. The unveiling ceremony was performed by Sir James Colquhoun, Bart., Lord-Lieutenant of the County, and there was a great concourse of spectators. Colonel Denny, M.P., and Colonel H. Brock, 1st D.R.V. delivered short addresses, and the guard of honour fired three volleys over the memorial. During the ceremony, the bands present played a number of hymns. The memorial was provided out of the balance of a fund raised to provide for the families of Dunbartonshire Volunteers who served in South Africa.”—Daily Record, October 10, 1904

Before the proceedings

Waiting for the unveiling

Address to the assembly

Laying wreaths

There were twelve names on the memorial, seven from the D.R.V. The pipers played “Lochaber no more.”

A statue of Peter Denny adorned the lawn on the south side of the Municipal Buildings.

The railway station can be seen behind the CollegeBow in this image

A view from the station platform, looking west to the engine works of Messrs Denny

Through the bridge under the railway station lay Dumbarton Common.

A religious “Tent Revival” at the edge of the Common

The Cottage Hospital overlooking the Common at Townhead was built in 1890

Strathleven Place leads off Church Street, under a railway bridge to Bonhill Road and on to Barloan Toll where it joins with the Stirling Road that led up the Vale of Leven to Bonhill, Jamestown and Drymen.

Murroch Glen

A mile or so along the road towards Bonhill, past the Gooseholm Farm, the road passed over the Murroch Burn. It was in a natural amphitheatre farther up the Murroch Glen that in 1904 a series of outdoor concerts were given in the summer months proved popular. Local choirs and the town band, pipe bands and occasional visits from outside choirs, even the Glasgow Orpheus Choir.

A choir performing in the natural amphitheater in Murdoch Glen

Leaving East from Bonhill Road was Round Riding Road that led to the gatehouse of Overtoun House on the Stirling Road.

Overtoun Road (Round Riding Road)

Villas on Round Riding Road

Overtoun Lodge on Stirling Road

John Campbell White was born in 1843, the son of a lawyer and owner of the Shawfield Chemical Works in Rutherglan who had purchased the Overtoun Estate in Dumbarton in 1859 and erected Overtoun House three years later. On the death of his father, White succeeded to the ownership of the Estate. He was raised to the peerage in 1893. However, the source of his wealth, the Chemical Works, became a scandal. The works produced potassium dichromate used in electroplating and other processes, and the crude, poorly ventillated conditions of its manufacture led to deep chrome holes or ulcers in the workers. In 1899, the Labour politician, Keir Hardie, let a campaign against the conditions. White was a stalwart Presbyterian and Sabbatarian but kept his factory open on Sundays and the adverse publicity of his hypocrisy forced him to build new facilities for the workers. He died in 1908 with no direct heir.

Overtoun in its hay day

Overtoun House became a maternity hospital after world war 2

On the death of Lord Overtoun in 1908, the estate fell to his nephew, Douglas White. He attempted to restrict public access to the old Garshake Mill, on the Overtoun policies, and a popular spot with local walkers and picnickers. Public rights-of-way demonstrations were prevalent in the Vale of Leven at the time and 10,00 people demonstrated against the restrictions in May, 1911. On his death, the Estate was gifted to the Burgh.

In 1873, at a special meeting of the Dumbarton Equitable Co-operative Society, Ltd., an intention was expressed to form a building society in the Burgh. Originally called the Dumbarton Land and Buildings Investment Company with trustees, Peter Denny of Helenslee, John Campbell White of Overtoun, and John M‘Ausland of Kirktonhill, it became the Dumbarton Building Society in 1878, and was reconstituted in 1883. The Society was greatly helped by the sale of land on favourable terms by Mr Peter Denny. The land was east of the High Street in the vicinity of the Castle where William Denny & Brothers had taken over the Leven Shipyard a few years earlier. Slowly but surely housing was built up in Leven Street, Clyde Street, Wallace Street, Victoria Street, and Bruce Street surrounding Knoxland Square. The area was called the Newton, although those from outside the area called it Dumbarton East.

From the junction of Church Street, the road east changes to Castle Street where there is the entrance to the Leven Shipyard and then onto Glasgow Road. Initially there are villas on the north side of the road with the streets of the Newton on the south side nearer the Castle.

Broomfauld villa on Glasgow Road

Tenement housing in Victoria Street. The housing was a mix of tenements and cottages that can be seen further down the street

Knoxland Square

In 1903, an Act of Parliament authorised the construction of a power station and tramways in Dumbarton. The single track with passing loops stretched from Dalreoch, across the Bridge over the Leven and along the High Street, then along the Glasgow Road to Dumbuck. Part of the track on the High Street was doubled. A branch line stretched from the High Street, down Church Street, along Strathleven Place, and under the railway bridge, where the road level had to lowered, then onto Bonhill Road, as far as Barloan Toll. The power station and depot was in Strathleven Place.

The Dumbuck Terminus surrounded by fields

The Dalreoch Terminus. The original line extended to Dalreoch Quarry, but this spot was the usual terminus point

The line opened on February 20th, 1907 with six double-decker trams, covered on top, in a maroon livery, running every 10 minutes between Dumbuck and Dalreoch and every 20 minutes to Barloan. Top speed was 12 m.p.h. Fares were 1d from the High Street to any terminus or 1½d from terminus to terminus, and were halved before 8 a.m. to accommodate workers.

Villas on Glasgow Road at Leven Street with trams on the distance

A tram on Glasgow Road in Dumbarton East. The clock-tower in the background was destroyed in World War 2 by a bomb 

Burgh tram in Glasgow Road

A tram in Church Street. The building on the left was an old Secession Church from 1826

Tramlines in Church Street

A Burgh tram on the east end of the High Street.

Glencairn Great House on the left and College Street on the right around 1910. The doorway with pillars on the left was the entrance to the Elephant Inn

A bumpy ride for a bicyclist on the cobble-stone road-bed laid for the tramway.

In June, 1908, the line was extended from Dalreoch through Renton and Alexandria to Balloch, and from Dumbuck through Bowling and Old Kilpatrick to Dalmuir; 11 miles in all. The County trams running from Dalmuir to Balloch were open top, and provided a 15 minute service. The livery of the County trams was dark green and cream although there are some pictures where they are shown in the maroon of the Burgh trams.

County tram at Dumbuck Village

County tram in Dumbarton East. The children in the foreground appear to have placed a dead cat on the trampolines to examine the effects of being run over by the tram

A county tram on the Bridge

A County tram on the High Street

A County and a Burgh tram on the High Street. College Street on the right

An open-topped tram used on the Barloan route on the High Street.

Barloan terminus

The trams facilitated attendance at the Glen concerts. Special services were run to Barloan from where the Murroch Glen was reached by a fair walk. There were similar events, also called “Glen Concerts” held in a field near the Dumbuck tram terminus.

Special service trams for Glen concerts.

A “Glen Concert” near Dumbuck.

The first world war brought an increase in work for the shipyards. While many occupations were “reserved,” large numbers of men joined the forces to fight in France. The local lads were mainly in the 9th Battalion, Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders formed in 1908 from remnants of the Dumbarton Rifle Volunteers. The 9th Battalion experienced heavy casualties at Ypres in 1915.

Training in the hills above Dumbarton on coastal watch.

Peace celebrations in 1919.

A permanent war memorial to the dead and missing was unveiled by Sir Iain Colquhoun on October 1st, 1922.There are 304 names inscribed. This view is dated 1934

For a few years after the first world war, the economy in Dumbarton was fairly strong as shipyards replaced tonnage sunk during the emergency. By the middle of the 1920s, this began to change and there were periods of short-work and unemployment. The tramways declined in the face of competition from motor busses. Operations were ceased early in March 1928, and quickly, the overhead wires were removed and tracks paved over.

Motor traffic on the High Street was increasingly prevalent in the early 1920s.

High Street looking east with the overhead wires removed

Bridge Street with the overhead wires removed

High Street at College Street in the early 1930s with tram-lines lifted

Motor traffic in the High Street in 1936

The junction with Church Street in 1936

Burton the tailors and the Glencain Greit House in 1938. The external steps of the Great House were removed in 1925 and replaced with a stone-arched arcade. The Scottish Motor Transport with its double-decker bus had driven most of the small bus-operators off the roads.

In the 1920s and 1930s, there was considerable development in Dumbarton East. The Gas works was extended and in 1915, the Babcock & Wilcox Company took over the premises of the Dumbarton Weldless Tube Company that had been a division of the Kosmoid Company. Kosmoid, notorious for a bogus plan to turn base elements into gold, was established in 1904 by Alexander Shiels. The Company tried to produce a new alloy, Cuferal, that was a mixture of iron and copper but the more speculative quest, presumably harnessing the novelties of radioactivity then in vogue, failed miserably. Part of the plan had been to power the works by hydro-electricity generated at Loch Sloy, but that had to wait for a further half-century.

Dumbarton from Dumbuck Hill in 1934.

Geils Avenue in 1925

Dumbuck Hotel in 1959

Later housing developments in the eastern area include Silverton and High Mains.

Returning to the Leven, and the various works and shipyards that lined its banks, immediately south of the bridge was the Levengrove works.

An unidentified sailing ship with an auxiliary steam driven screw is seen receiving her engines from the Levengrove works around 1870. The Woodyard can be seen further down the river

The same ship from the bow. Note the lads skinny-dipping off the buoy.

Further down the river, at the Woodyard, looking across the river to the town and the quay in 1882

A paddle steamer at the Woodyard around 1900

The Quay in 1901

A whale caught off Dumbarton in 1905

Rowing out from the Quay with a good view of the bridge around 1910

Morning on the Leven in 1925

The Leven from the Bridge around 1925

A regatta on the Leven. Rowing matches were more common.

The Leven Bridge in 1936

North of the Bridge, the Railway Bridge crosses the Leven in this view from 1910, taken from the Broadmeadow

At the other end of the town, the firm of Messrs William Denny & Bros., moved to the Leven Yard in 1867, and expanded into the adjacent Victoria Yard. Within a few years they were producing excellent vessels such as the Hydaspes for the P.&O. Co.

Hydaspes of 1872 off Gravesend 

Queen Margaret at the yard of Messrs M‘Millan in 1893

Shipbuilding in the Leven Yard in the 1890s

Maidstone on the slip at Messrs Denny’s in 1899, She was built for the cross-Channel cargo service of the London, Chatham & Dover Railway Co.

Launch of the Maidstone

Maidstone afloat in the Leven

The successful introduction of turbine propulsion in the King Edward, established Messrs Denny at the forefront of the construction of cross-channel steamers

Sangola in the Denny fitting-out basin in 1901 for the British India Co.

Shamrock III launched on St Patrick’s day, 1903 was the America’s cup challenger of Sir Thomas Lipton. She was built in a specially constructed covered berth to prevent viewing of details of the hull shape 

Imperatritsa Ekaertina II fitting out by Denny in 1913 for Russian owners

The view of Dumbarton and the Leven from the Castle provides much detail of the town, and how it changed over the years.

The towering Castle Rock is an excellent vantage point to view the town

The boatyard at Sandpoint directly across from the Castle around 1900 when owned by Messrs Robert M‘Alister & Son. There is a steamer at the Woodyard that may either be undergoing repair or breaking-up

Sandpoint yard of Messrs Robert M‘Alister & Son

Dumbarton from the Castle in 1907 with the yard of Messrs M‘Millan on the right

In 1910, the boilermakers on the Clyde were locked-out for five months following pay and conditions demands. They held many demonstrations around the Clyde area. This is the Dumbarton Boilermakers Lock-Out Band that accompanied demonstrations to make as much noise as possible.

Cross-channel turbine steamer Princess Victoria fitting out in 1912

In 1921, aerial photographs added to the over-view.

The Castle Rock from an aeroplane around 1921 with the yards of Messrs M‘Millan in the centre and those of Messrs Denny on the right

An expanded view of Dumbarton from the air in 1921. Pegu, built for Messrs Henderson’s Burmah trade is in Denny’s fitting-out basin

The western end of Dumbarton from the air in 1921. Patchwork patterns can be seen of the allotments at the Broadmeadow and next to Levengrove Park that were made available during World War 1. At the bottom right is the Cricket Park with its Pavilion and wicket square

Dumbarton Cricket Club were Western League Champions in 1906

Dumbarton Cricket Club in 1909

Cross-channel turbine steamers, Hibernia, Cambria and Scotia fitting out at Denny’s in 1920

Launch of Isle of Thanet for the Channel Islands service of the Southern Railway at Denny’s in 1925

Yoma, for the Burmah trade of  Messrs Henderson, on the stocks at Messrs Denny in July 1928

The Denny-built steamers of Messrs Henderson’s Burmah trade were frequent visitors to the Clyde. Here Amarapoora and Bah are seen off Gourock

Burma off Gourock

Launch of Daru from Messrs M‘Millan’s yard in 1927, for the African trade of Messrs Elder Dempster & Co. Ltd., Liverpool

Aerofilms produced a series of postcards of the town in 1928. Here is Messrs M‘Millan’s yard. The yard closed in 1934

Aerofilms view of the Rock and the yard of Messrs Denny in 1928

Dennystown Forge and the housing in Dennystown on a fine drying day in 1928

Dumbarton from the Castle around 1930

The Castle Rock in 1931. In the Denny fitting out basin is the Ardenvohr for the Australind Steam Shipping Co Ltd

Ardenvohr off Whiteinch after dry-docking at Govan

Denny’s yard in 1936 with the cross-channel steamer Slieve Bearnagh and destroyer Havoc fitting out

The Clyde from the Castle in 1934

Levengrove and the mouth of the Leven in 1934

After Messrs M‘Millan’s yard closed in 1934, it was quickly dismantled and by this view from 1938, was replaced by a distillery. The Canadian distillers had purchased  the Scotch Whisky blenders George Ballantyne  & Sons in 1936 and built a grain distillery and bottling plant on the site that began production in 1938

Dumbarton from the Castle Rock in 1939

Another new industry was the Blackburn Aircraft Company built immediately to the east of the Denny Yard. This view dates from  1938

During World War 2, the Blackburn factory produced Sunderland flying boats

Dumbarton in 1947

The Leven in 1947. Loch Seaforth is fitting out

British Railways steamer Duke of Rothesay fitting out in 1956

Valetta for Messrs Olaf Ditlev-Simonsen Jr., Oslo, and the stern of Bardic Ferry, fitting out in 1957

Bardic Ferry

The paper carrier, Nicolas Bowater, for the Bowater S.S. Co. Ltd., London, fitting out in 1958

Nicolas Bowater

H.M.S Jaguar in 1958. Empty building berths and decreasing competitiveness forced the closure of Messrs Willam Denny & Bros., in 1953

Dumbarton in 1957

After the end of World War 2, the Blackburn factory went into the production of pre-fabricated aluminum houses. This view is from 1957

This final part shows Dumbarton High Street in the 1940s and 1950s, pretty much as I remember it.

East end of the High Street in 1947

Looking west along the High Street in 1947

A similar view in 1957

Glencairn Greit House next to Woolworths in 1960

An enduring memory—Guard Geese at the bonded warehouses