Lord of the Isles heading up the River Clyde with Dumbarton Rock in the distance

With the exception of the Broomielaw and Bridge Wharf, photographs of pleasure steamers at the piers on the River Clyde are quite rare. In latter years, the usual stopping places were the piers at Partick, Govan, Renfrew, Bowling, and, for a brief period, Dumbarton. This article provides some background on the piers and the photographs I have of them.

In the early years of steamboat traffic on the river, a journey might begin at a ferry point where the passengers would be rowed out to the passing steamboat by the ferryman. Common points on the river where there were ferries were at Govan; at the mouth of the Kelvin; at the “Water Neb,” the mouth of the Cart at Renfrew; at Dunglass point; and at the West Ferry crossing to Dumbarton.

Boarding or disembarking a steamboat from or onto an open rowing ferry-boat could be treacherous even in calm weather and there is little doubt that many suffered a ducking and not a few, something worse during the operation.

“The late accident on the Clyde—The following we believe to be a very correct account of the accident we cursorily noticed in our last. On Wednesday afternoon, the Kilmun steam boat sailed from Greenock; and during all the time, till she neared Dunglass it had blown very hard, so much so that the Captain had determined to take in no passengers from any small boat on the way. As she came near this station, however, there came a lull, and seeing a boat pretty far out from the shore, apparently well filled with passengers, he thought it was a pity to leave them, and with all convenient speed gave orders, to take off the steam, when the boat came alongside, and was, fastened as is usual, with the line. While the passengers were in the act, of coming on board, a sudden gust of wind, described by a passenger “as if it had blown from a funnel,” struck the steamer, and there was a general cry from the passengers that she was going on the dyke, and to give her a turn a-head. At this instant, as we have been informed, the Captain, seeing that his vessel was actually going on the dyke, called to the ferryman to let go the line, and, thinking the order had been complied with, gave the word for a turn a-head. The attention of the Captain was here withdrawn for a moment from the ferry boat to his own vessel, which no exertions could save from running on the dyke, and he then observed that the boat had been upset, from seeing a great number of hats and bonnets drifting away with the current. At this instant, a gentleman leaped from the steam boat and saved a woman (who was afterwards carried to a farm house and completely recovered), and the boat of the Kilmun was lowered, but they only saw one man, who sunk before they could reach him; indeed, all the sufferers, who are stated to be ten or eleven in number, were carried so rapidly off by the ebb tide, and the fresh of the river, that nothing whatever could be done for them. After the accident, one or two persons, who were found hanging by the cross bars of the cabin windows, were safely got on board.—Glasgow Argus,”—Caledonian Mercury, January 10, 1835

It was during the 1830s, when a new generation of steamboats, faster and more reliable than their predecessors, began to pay more attention to running to a time schedule. The slow process of embarking and disembarking passengers from small boats dropped out of favour and piers gained greater importance, particularly with the better class of steamboats.

On the River Clyde, the first pier was at Renfrew. In 1834 the Paisley and Renfrew Railway Company issued their prospectus, for the construction of a railway between Paisley and Renfrew Ferry and making a wharf at Renfrew to connect with the river traffic. The Railway was opened in April 1837 with three locomotives for haulage but otherwise it was isolated from the existing rail network, and indeed was not incorporated with it until the mid-1860s. The Railway Company built a wharf at Renfrew and provided strong encouragement for steamboats to call there when passing up and down the river. This would be in addition to the usual ferry call at the “water neb” and although initially there was no charge for calling at the wharf, once established the Railway Company began to charge three-pence a call to pay for the pier personnel and upkeep.

Steamboats traveling to Rothesay, Largs, and the more remote parts of the Firth, began to by-pass the ferries farther up the river, and their first call from the Broomielaw was at Renfrew Wharf. Even then, further dangers of steamboat travel came to the fore in steamboats where engine maintenance and supervision was less that satisfactory. With steam up for a significant period of time, the brief stop at Renfrew required steam-pressure to be blown off and if this was not promptly carried out, tragedy could result.

“Steam-boat Explosion the Clyde.—Life Lost.— About six o’clock on Thursday morning the steamer Argyll left the Broomielaw with goods and passengers for Inverary and the immediate ports, and while lying to at Renfrew-wharf on her passage down the river, we regret to state that her boiler burst, and loss of life and suffering has been the result. A young man belonging to Glasgow, named Thomas Craig, who officiated as fireman, was so dreadfully scalded that he must have died instantaneously. Another young man, a passenger, whose name we have not been able to ascertain, was most severely injured, and believe his recovery is doubtful. Some of the other persons on board were also scalded, but so slightly that the accident will not prevent them following their usual avocations. The Argyll had been for some time laid up at the Broomielaw undergoing repairs on her boilers, and this was her first trip after the renovation. On subsequent inspection it was found that the explosion had taken place at the bottom of the boiler, in which the newly-inserted plates had given way, leaving the old portions untouched.”—Glasgow Courier, July, 1839

As a result of increasing pier dues, the steamboats withdrew calls at the wharf on July 1st 1840, but this was soon resolved. After the opening of the Glasgow, Paisley, and Greenock Railway in 1840, much of the Paisley traffic passed directly to Greenock, and, in financial difficulties, the Renfrew line reverted to horse haulage in 1842. The wharf, however, remained.

The canal wharf at Bowling

Frisky Wharf, the steamboat pier at Bowling (West Dunbartonshire Libraries)

While there was a wharf at Bowling in conjunction with the Forth and Clyde Canal, the steamboat pier, Frisky Wharf, was opened in 1850 in conjunction with the opening of the Caledonian and Dumbartonshire Junction Railway Company between Bowling and Balloch on Loch Lomond. It provided an outlet to the Clyde steamboats for residents of Dumbarton and the Vale of Leven, but lost some of its appeal and importance when in 1858, the railway was extended to Glasgow and Helensburgh.

By 1860, few of the steamers sailing to Largs, Rothesay, and other parts of the Firth advertised calls at either Renfrew or Bowling. Exceptions were the Gareloch steamer, Gem, and Captain Buchanan’s Eagle. A few years later it was the Sunday steamer Cardiff Castle, and the excursion steamer Petrel, that were advertised to call. In 1867, the steamers Ardencaple, Ardgowan and Levan began offering Saturday late afternoon excursions to Bowling, calling at Renfrew, and the Petrel ran to Greenock in mid-afternoon in competition, with calls at Renfrew and Bowling both down and up the river. Steamers, such as Vulcan, on the Rothesay station, offered calls at Bowling and Renfrew on the return to Glasgow.

The practice of steamers letting off passengers at intermediate piers and ferries, unadvertised, prevailed in the 1860s and beyond, and on April 6th, 1861, an accident at the Govan ferry boat, when passengers rushed to the ferry boat and swamped it, resulted in a total of seven fatalities.

“Boat disaster at Govan—Loss of six lives.—A melancholy occurrence, of a character which, happily for us and the good name of the working classes of this city and neighbourhood, it does not fall often to our lot to record, took place at Govan on Saturday afternoon last, and has resulted, so far as yet been ascertained, in the loss of new fewer than six lives. It is well known to be the custom for river steamboats having passengers for Govan, Partick, and other places where there are ferries, to land these parties at their respective destinations by means of the ferry-boats; and about five o’clock on Saturday last, the steamer Lochgoil having arrived at Govan from Lochgoilhead, Captain M‘Intyre prepared to land those of his passengers who wished to leave the steamboat at that point. These passengers were in number considerable, and consisted chiefly of some of Messrs Napier’s men who had been working on the Black Prince, now lying at Greenock. The ferry-boat, which was under the charge of James Docherty, chanced to be crossing at the time, and had on board a female passenger, named or Mary Murray or Fitzpatrick, wife of Barnet Fitzpatrick, a labourer, residing at 67 Orchard Street, Partick. Two men and a girl, whose names remain as yet unknown, were also in the ferry-boat. The boat went alongside of the steamer, and immediately a rush was made to get on board by a large number of workmen, several of whom are said to have been much the worse of liquor at the time. Capt. M‘Intyre and his crew used every exertion to stop this very dangerous proceeding, for it appeared quite evident that, unless means to prevent the men from persevering in their reckless and disgraceful course of content, the boat was sure to be overcrowded and capsized, and many lives lost. Notwithstanding, however, the best efforts of Captain M‘Intyre and his assistants, the men persisted in rushing into the boat, every one being apparently more anxious than another to get on shore at once. The ferry-man very properly endeavoured to shove off the boat, but this he was unable to do in consequence of some of the men holding it firmly by the side of the vessel. The scene was one of intense uproar and excitement, which indeed prevailed not only in the small boat, but also on shore and on board the Lochgoil and the Pearl, which was immediately in the wake of the former. At this time there could not have ben fewer than between thirty and forty people in the ferry-boat, the highest number sanctioned by the regulations being twenty-four; and the greatest fear was apprehended by the onlookers for the safety of those in the boat. Their precarious position was rendered none the less so by all the exertions of Captain M‘Intyre and the intelligent portion of the passengers. The men poured into the boat from the moment of its touching the steamer, until the last, borne down by the unusual and unbearable weight of its contents, and a movement of the men on board having caused a lurch to one side, it suddenly upset, and all on board were pitched into the river. The scene almost baffles description. Consternation prevailed on the steamers and on shore, while the frantic efforts of some of those who had submerged to save themselves from instant death, were lamentable to behold, and the heartrending cries which smote the ears of the horror-struck spectators, were distressing indeed. Instant action was, however, taken to rescue the unfortunate people, and not a moment was lost in lowering the small boat belonging to the Lochgoil. Several boats arrived from the shore, and a boat was likewise despatched from the Pearl. By these means, and by the able assistance of the passengers of the Lochgoil, many of whom behaved with great courage and prudence, all were saved, with the exception, as we have stated, of six—two females and four men. The unfortunate woman, Mrs. Fitzpatrick, was one of those who were drowned. She was brought on shore by William M‘Auley, a ferryman, but life was found to be extinct. Her case was a very melancholy one. She had gone over to Govan on some messages, and was returning to her home, her husband, in fact, being on the bank of the river, waiting for her at the time the calamity occurred. The other female who was not rescued was a young girl belonging to Greenock, but whose name has not been ascertained. She was about twelve years of age, and had come up along with a lodger of her father (who was saved), to spend the time till Monday in visiting some friends. Her body was not found till eight o’clock yesterday morning. The bodies of the four men were found yesterday afternoon, about half-past five. Two of them were recognised as David Rolley, foreman carpenter, and William Skinner—both in the employment of Messrs Napier. The other two men have not been identified. One wore moleskin trousers and vest, and had 18s. 4d. in his pockets. The other was dressed in black, and had a watch and chain, and 2s. 6d. in his pocket. These articles can be had by the proper parties, at the Humane Society’s House, Greenock. Search was begun yesterday morning, at four o’clock, by some of the men of Mr. George Geddes, of the Humane Society’s House, for the bodies of deceased, and, with the exception of about a couple of hours at high tide, was continued by them until half-past seven p.m. Mr. Geddes himself was in attendance, and rendered efficient service. He was ably supported by the villagers. It is but right that we should state a fact of some consequence in regard to this matter, namely, that the ferrymen are prohibited, by the regulations under which they hold their situations, from touching at any steamer when they have on board passengers who are crossing from one side to the other. Had this regulation been attended to, we need not say that Mrs Fitzpatrick would have arrived at home quite quite safe. At the same time, the more serious part of the disaster seems to have arisen from the reckless and unjustifiable conduct of the parties who rushed so inexcuseably on board the boat.”—Glasgow Herald, April 8, 1861

There was some newspaper correspondence regarding the availability of cork lifebelts that could be thrown to passengers in the water and there were questions by one of the survivors about whether Captain M‘Intyre, well informed that the workmen intended to disembark at Govan and knowing that some were intoxicated, might have done more to limit the crush.

This was not the only accident at the ferry that month.

“Narrow escape at Govan Ferry.—As the steamer Venus was approaching Govan Ferry yesterday, with the signal to land some passengers, a new ferry man went alongside, and, from some cause or other, was thrown into the water. Being an expert swimmer, he reached the shore in safety. This is only another reason for something being done in the way of providing a wharf for this important landing place.”—Glasgow Herald, April 11, 1861

Shortly thereafter, a steamboat pier was erected at Partick.

“A Pier at Govan Ferry.—ln consequence of the late serious accident at this ferry, the Committee of Management of the Clyde Trust have resolved to erect forthwith a pier at the north side of the Govan Ferry. It is to be a substantial erection, and to have accommodation which many piers do not possess. It will in length 150 feet, and waiting rooms are to be built for the passengers who may be waiting on steamers coming down the river, and who, if the weather be inclement, will be sheltered from it. The plans for the pier and the waiting rooms have been drawn, and schedules have been issued to various tradesmen, inviting them to give in estimates for the work. It is expected that the pier and the waiting rooms will be finished by June. Like all the piers on the Clyde, a small sum—likely a penny—will be charged from each who takes advantage of it for going on board or landing from a steamer. As many who live in Partick and neighbourhood will prefer to use the pier instead of going up to the head of the Broomielaw, the Clyde Trust will, whilst conferring a great boon upon the public, derive large revenue from the pier. But why should they do a good thing by halves, why construct a pier for the inhabitants of Partick and not for those of Govan. There are also large numbers living in and around Govan who require a pier, and who, had they one, would take advantage of it in such numbers that the Trust would derive good interest for the money laid out on a second pier. With a pier on one side only, all possibility of accidents such that which painfully affected the public mind a few weeks ago is not entirely removed; but with pier on each side, there will be no accidents from the same cause, for the ferry-boats will only be used for those who cross the ferry.”—Paisley Herald, May 4, 1861

Partick Pier (Ritchie)

Partick Pier at the mouth of the Kelvin

The practice of landing passengers at Partick Pier (for Partick and Govan) on the up-river journey doubtless continued. On the down-river journey, initially there was some reluctance to interrupt the journey when speed was of the essence in the public eye. Excursion steamers such as Petrel, called, and the Holy Loch steamer Nelson advertised a call in 1868. Gradually, however, a stop at Partick pier or, as it was sometimes known, “Govan and Partick” or, simply as “Govan,” was built into the schedules of many of the downriver sailings, including those of Iona and later, Columba.

While the pier might be referred to as “Govan and Partick Pier,” the good folks south of the river resented the fact that in addition to the pier dues, they had to fork out another sum for the ferry crossing. Ultimately, this was solved by suspending the pier dues.

A pier for Govan on the south bank of the river was constructed as part of the 1883 docks development. It was further down-river from Govan Ferry, adjacent to the Govan-West-Meadowside ferry crossing point accessed through Holm Street (later Wanlock Street) and was opened in time for the 1885 Glasgow Spring Holiday.

“Clyde Navigation.—Opening of the Govan Passenger Wharf. On and after Wednesday, the 8th current, this wharf will be open daily, Sundays excepted, for embarking and landing of passengers by such of the river passenger steamers that shall call at the wharf. Charge one penny per passenger. On and after the same day, Sundays excepted, a charge of one penny will be made on each passenger using the Govan and Partick passenger wharf on the north side of the river for embarking on board of or landing from a vessel at that wharf; provided that such charge shall, if required, include the conveyance of the passenger by the adjoining ferry to the opposite side of the river, except between midnight and 5 o’clock in the morning. By order, Geo. Reith, General Manager. Clyde Trust Chambers, Glasgow, 2d April 1885.”—Glasgow Herald, April 3, 1885

The excursion traffic on that Spring Holiday Saturday was busy and many of the steamers included stops at both Partick and Govan. This included Chevalier, on the Ardrishaig sailing.

“New passenger wharf at Govan.—The new passenger wharf which has been erected at Govan was opened for traffic yesterday. By the completion of this work a great boon has been conferred on the inhabitants of Govan, who have long felt the inconvenience of having to cross the Clyde to embark on the river steamers. The new wharf is 140 feet in length, and it is fitted with a fine suite of waiting-rooms and offices. A penny is charged for each person who uses the wharf either for embarking on or landing from a passenger steamer. At Pointhouse Wharf, on the opposite side of the river, the charge of a penny per passenger was resumed yesterday, after having been in abeyance for some time.”—Glasgow Herald, April 9, 1885

Edinburgh Castle heading for Govan Pier on her run up the river from Lochgoilhead

The final pier on the river was down-river at Dumbarton. Passenger service from the Broomielaw to Dumbarton Quay was withdrawn at the end of 1868, and in 1875, a pier, extending to the dredged channel of the Clyde, was built next to the Dumbarton Castle Rock. An account of the pier is given elsewhere, and will not be mentioned in detail. It provided an additional landing point but failed to meet expectations as it was isolated from the town centre and the railway stations. It was closed in 1900 after it was damaged in a gale.

A distant view of a steamer at Dumbarton Pier

Dumbarton Pier from the river after it had been closed

Thus, between 1885 and 1900, there were five piers that steamers could call at on the river, and many of the excursion steamers called at all five. These included the steamers of Messrs Buchanan, and the Lochgoil Company. In general, the tourist steamers called at Govan but by-passed the others. There was another problem that affected traffic at the river piers. The Clyde was heavily polluted and sailing on the river was not a particularly pleasant experience. The railways to Greenock and Wemyss Bay on the south bank and to Helensburgh on the north allowed more affluent passengers to avoid the noisome trip.

Buchanan’s Scotia passing Renfrew

Lochgoil Company’s Edinburgh Castle passing Scotstoun

Edinburgh Castle

As early as the 1850s, the polluted state of the Clyde came to the forefront of public attention, prompting one public official to state that “any one….could not fail to remark the intolerable odour which rose from the Clyde. The stench was so intolerable that few would care about going down the Clyde, even though they were paid for it.” The deepening of the Clyde had exacerbated the problem, slowing the flow of the river. Attempts were made to raise public subscriptions to re-direct and treat the human and industrial waste, but these came to nought. Municipal plans fared little better as the undertaking seemed overwhelming. It was as late as 1894 that the first treatment plant at Dalmarnock was opened and a decade later the plant at Dalmuir began operations. The Shieldhall plant followed in 1910.

Isle of Cumbrae in the river and Isle of Arran at the Broomielaw on the Rothesay station for Messrs Buchanan

Isle of Cumbrae approaching Govan Pier on her way down river.

Buchanan’s Isle of Bute passing Scotstoun (Robertson Glasgow)

Isle of Arran passing Scotstoun (Robertson Glasgow)

Isle of Skye in Buchanan colors approaching Govan Pier

The resulting improvement in the state of the river resulted in a popularizing in “all-the-way” sailings from Glasgow to the coast in the years before the first world war. The main beneficiaries were the excursion steamers of Messrs Buchanan and Messrs Williamson.

Williamson’s Strathmore passing H.M.S. Cumberland on her way past Govan

Williamson’s Kylemore passing Scotstoun on her way up river (Robertson Glasgow)

Kylemore

Buchanan’s Isle of Cumbrae passing Renfrew ferry

Shieldhall making smoke for Isle of Arran as she approaches Bowling on her way down river

Buchanan’s Isle of Cumbrae at Bowling Pier

Isle of Cumbrae at Dunglass, heading for Bowling on her up-river journey

Williamson’s Queen Empress leaving Renfrew

These were joined by others including the Turbine Steamers that had taken over the Lord of the Isles and Ivanhoe, and Captain Alexander Cameron who had taken over the Madge Wildfire from the Caledonian Steam Packet Co., and brought the Lady Rowena from the South Coast.

Lord of the Isles hurting on her way down river past Bowling

Ivanhoe passing Clydebank

The stately Columba at Bowling, by-passing the river piers except Govan 

Cameron’s Madge Wildfire at Bowling Pier

There was one railway steamer route that sailed from the Broomielaw. This was the Kilmun station, the goodwill for which was inherited by the Caledonian Steam Packet Co. when they purchased the fleet of Messrs Campbell in 1889. The sailings on this route terminated in 1908.

Caledonia on the Kilmun station leaving Partick (Ritchie)

Madge Wildfire of the Kilmun station for the Caledonian Steam Packet Co. at the Broomielaw

Caledonia at a favorite spot for the photographer, passing Scotstoun on her way down-river to Kilmun (Robertson Glasgow)

Partick Wharf was closed in 1906 to make way for developments for the adjacent vehicular ferry. But the piers at Govan, Renfrew and Bowling proved popular with the river excursion traffic, before and after the first world war, extending into the 1930s.

Williamson-Buchanan’s Isle of Arran leaving the Broomielaw in the 1930s

Isle of Arran approaching Renfrew in 1924 (Valentine)

Clyde Street Renfrew with the funnel of a Williamson-Buchanan steamer at the wharf, visible just beyond the lamp-post on the right

Bowling closed to excursion traffic in 1937 and Renfrew was used until the outbreak of war in 1939. It was damaged in the Blitz in 1941 and subsequently dismantled.

Govan Wharf survived both wars and continued in use until it was closed in 1953.

Milton Isle west of Dunglass

The River Clyde from Havoc shore, Dumbarton

Cardross shore in the gloaming