“About 6 miles from Dunoon the district of Toward commences, and extends along the coast for a distance of about 4 miles. There is no village of the name; but about the centre of the district there is a chapel in connection with the Established Church (Rev. James Geekie). Close beside the church is Toward pier and lighthouse, and Castle Toward. Old Castle Toward was at one time the seat of the ancient family of Lamont of Ardlamont. It was purchased many years ago, along with Auchenvulline and other adjoining estates, by the late Kirkman Finlay, Esq., of Glasgow, who erected the present stately mansion, and is now the seat of his son, A. S. Finlay, Esq., late M.P. for Argyllshire. The view from Castle Toward is most magnificent. Situated on a rising ground, it commands a prospect of great extent, including parts of Renfrewshire and Ayrshire, the two Cumbraes, Bute, and the distant hills of Arran, the Frith of Clyde, from Cloch to Cumbrae lighthouse, Rothesay Bay and town, the Kyles of Bute, &c. There is a school in the district, which derives its support from the cottars on the farms. This is a very pleasant drive of about 8 miles along the coast to Castle Toward.”—Colegate’s Guide, 1868

Toward Light (Tuck)

The lighthouse at Toward was built in 1812 to augment the lights at Little Cumbrae and the Cloch and allow ships an extra bearing when entering the upper part of the Firth. The adjacent keeper’s house was built in the 1880s, replacing an earlier structure.

Castle Toward around 1870 with the Findlay family and staff

Castle Toward in 1951 (Valentine)

However, it was the construction of Castle Toward in 1820 by the Kirkman Finlay, former Provost of Glasgow, that focused attention on the area. The architect was David Hamilton who also designed the Castle House at Dunoon and Hafton House, the principle residences on the Cowal shore. The house was extended when taken over by Major Andrew Coats in the early 1920s and became a residential school owned by Glasgow Corporation after the second world war. Back in private hands, it is currently undergoing much needed renovation.

There was a stone quay opposite Castle Toward that was used to ferry residents to the passing steamboats dating from about 1820, but it was as late as 1863 that a pier was built adjacent to the lighthouse where steamers could dock at all states of the tide. The pier was the project of Mr Lamont of Knockdow, spurred with the possibilities of feuing and the imminent opening of the Wemyss Bay Railway that would provide a convenient connection with the new pier. The location was exposed and there was local speculation that the pier would be carried away in the winter storms. James Lamont took considerable interesting the materials used for construction, trying various wood types and treatments ensuring thatit was built to last.

“In the construction of Toward Pier, in 1863 various experimental piles were driven, at the instance of Mr Jas. Lamont of Knockdow, for the purpose of testing the sort of timber that could best withstand the action of the teredo naralis, the limnoria terebrans, and other marine insects. These comprised Bethel’s patent creosoted timber piles; others clad with copper, zinc, and Muntz’s patent sheathing; Quebec red pine covered with wrought-iron pile nails about one inch square on head, one-eighth inch thick, and weighing about three lb. per square foot of timber; larch with the bark on; greenheart and elm fenders. The result was that the elm was eaten through in about four years, or the rate of one inch per annum; the larch stood about seven years; the Quebec red pine, without protection, lasted for nearly the same period; while the creosoted remains still uninjured, together with the greenheart and the piles covered with the sheathing and nails. The Toward Pier, during its erection, was an object of some interest. The site being openly exposed to the cross seas of the firth, not few doubted whether the building would have stability to resist their force. It has, however, braved many a gale, and still looks a durable structure. The length of its masonry approach is 85 feet; of timber bridge, 260 feet, by 16 feet broad; length of pierhead 126 feet, and breadth, 25 feet. The plans of the pier were prepared by Messrs Robson, Forman, & M‘Call, C.E., Glasgow, and carried out by Messrs J. & A. Waddell, contractors, Coatbridge.— Scotsman.”—Greenock Telegraph, April 18, 1872.

“Toward.—The handsome new pier erected by Mr Lamont, of Knockdow, near Toward Lighthouse, is now nearly completed, and was opened Thursday morning by the steamer Vulcan taking in cargo of sheep for the Glasgow market. This one of the handsomest and most substantial piers on the coast, with convenient access, and 8½ feet of water at low tide; and we understand that several of the Rothesay steamers have made arrangements to call both going and returning. Toward Point is only two a half miles from the terminus of the Greenock and Weymss Bay Railway now in course of construction, and expected to be opened for traffic in June, 1864. When this railway is completed, passengers will be able to reach Toward or Innellan from Glasgow in one hour and twenty minutes or less, and Rothesay in an hour and half.

Vulcan in Rothesay Bay (Adamson)

“We are informed that several influential gentlemen on the coast have projected the establishment of line of swift steamers to run from Wemyss Bay to Rothesay, Ardrishaig, and other ports on the West Coast, without running up the river beyond the terminus of Wemyss Bay Railway; and as the railway will run to the very head of the pier at Kelly, the passage from Glasgow to the west will be shortened fully one hour, and the discomfort and annoyance at present experienced by passengers in going through Greenock will obviated.”—The Morning Journal, October 26, 1863

The Wemyss Bay connection was not quite all it should have been.

“Wemyss Bay route to Rothesay.— To the Editor of the Glasgow Herald. Sir,—Allow me, through the medium of your columns, to draw the attention of the directors, both of the Wemyss Bay Railway and Wemyss Bay steamers, to the following statement showing the neglect of the railway officials, and the conduct of the captain of the steamer Victory.

“On Saturday last I had occasion, along with friend, to travel on the above route to Toward, leaving Glasgow with the 4.10 p.m. train, having secured tickets for the through journey. Soon after leaving Glasgow station we found, both to our surprise and annoyance, that there was no light in the compartment of the carriage which we occupied. We had no opportunity of complaining to the guard regarding this neglect until we reached Inverkip, where the tickets are collected, when, on laying the matter before this functionary, he merely replied that it was the fault of some of the officials at Glasgow, or some thing to the same effect. Now, I consider that it is very uncomfortable, as well as dangerous, to travel fully 30 miles in total darkness, and through so many tunnels and deep cuttings, in perhaps not the best of company. But this was not the worst part of our journey. On reaching Wemyss Bay, and embarking on board the steamer Victory, we were no sooner seated in the cabin below, and after the steamer had started, than we were startled by the unexpected question by one of the steamer’s “hands,” who made his appearance at the cabin door, “Any passengers here for Toward?” On replying in the affirmative, he coolly informed us that we must go out at Innellan, as the steamer would not touch at Toward Pier, and took himself off before we had time to ask for an explanation. On our gaining the deck, and inquiring of the captain his reason for not calling at Toward, he replied that it was too dark to call there.

“Now, I must confess that it was pretty dark, but not too dark not to be able to distinguish the lights of Toward Pier more than a mile off, besides having the lighthouse to guide the captain all the way. If this is the way the captain is to excuse himself from the trouble of calling at this pier, no one will be able to depend on getting ashore at all, if it is the least dark, or the sea a little rougher than is usual. This is no exceptional case, as it occurs frequently now. There were other passengers on board for Toward, and I believe there were some passengers waiting on at this place to be conveyed to Rothesay.

“I trust that for the sake of passengers who travel to this place regularly the directors will get this matter put to rights and allow them the comfort and convenience which they are entitled to. Your insertion of this in an early number of your much-valued paper will oblige your obedient servant, J. M. 11th Dec, 1865.”—Glasgow Herald, Dec 16, 1865

The Wemyss Bay Company did provide a good service although it must be imagined that passenger numbers were small. In 1877, the company suffered a set-back when their steamer, Lady Gertrude, fresh from an overhaul, had a mechanical breakdown when approaching the pier and stranded on the rocky shoreline.

Lady Gertrude in Rothesay Bay

“Stranding of a Clyde steamer—An accident of a nature happily rare on the Firth of Clyde occurred on Saturday to the Wemyss Bay Company’s steamer Lady Gertrude, while on her way to Rothesay with passengers from the 10.30 a.m. train from Glasgow. After leaving Wemyss Bay the Lady Gertrude made her usual call Innellan, and was preparing to stop at Toward Pier. The customary order was given to reverse the engines, but owing to some derangement of part of the machinery—the heating of a bearing as it has been supposed—the reversing could not be accomplished, and the steamer ran upon the rocks immediately beyond the pier, where she firmly sticks. The vessel was on her first trip after undergoing an overhaul.”—Edinburgh Evening News, January 15, 1877

“Stranding of a Wemyss Bay steamer.—On Saturday afternoon, when the steamer Lady Gertrude, on her second trip from Wemyss Bay to Rotheeay, was approaching Toward, something went wrong with her machinery, and she shot past the pier without stopping. An easterly breeze was blowing at the time and drove her in shore, when the stern touched the pier, and this had the effect of turning her bow towards the rocks, when she drove on hard and fast. It was at this time high tide, but just on the turn of the ebb. The steamer Inveraray Castle passed immediately after she struck, and having kindly offered assistance, a hawser was quickly passed on board, but it was found impossible to move her. Tugs were telegraphed for, and two having come from Greenock the passengers, all of whom got safely ashore, were taken to Rothesay, and those from there and Innellan were carried by the tug to Wemyss Bay. On account of the exposed situation and rough nature of the shore, the Lady Gertrude is likely to become total wreck. Yesterday lighters and men from Greenock were in attendance.

Inveraray Castle at Rothesay Pier (Valentine)

“The Wemyss Bay steamer Lady Gertrude is now in a much worse position than on Saturday. The operations on Saturday night were unsuccessful. Yesterday there was a stiff breeze from the south, and the steamer is completely under water. Pontoons have arrived for the purpose of having them applied in any attempt to raise her. According to accounts got this morning she is still fast on the rocks, and her position is a very dangerous one. Indeed, she shows symptoms of breaking up between the engines and boilers, and if not got off very soon there is little chance of her being saved.

“[The latest to hand at 1 p.m. to-day is to the effect that the Lady Gertrude broke up amidships during the course of last sight, and has become a total wreck. She was valued at £6,000, and it is said that she is not covered by insurance.]”—Greenock Telegraph, January 15, 1877.

The engines of Lady Gertrude were salved and placed in the new Adela for the Wemyss Bay Company.

Toward Light from the pier (Stengel)

Duchess of Montrose at Toward (Stengel)

In the 1880s, most of the steamers sailing to Rothesay called at the pier and it was held as an example that there was no means of signaling provided by Mr Lamont when Parliamentary action was requested to introduce pier signals. The subsequent introduction of the railway steamers resulted in the Caledonian steamers providing most of the service, a situation that lasted until the first-world war.

A North British steamer at Toward

After the war, the pier was in poor shape and in 1922, the Caledonian Company served notice that its steamers would no longer call.

Scotsman June 1, 1922

Toward pier and light in the 1920s

Toward pier and light in 1929 (Valentine)

The structure began to disintegrate and was demolished in 1932.

“Toward Pier to be demolished by Fife firm—A familiar landing stage on the Clyde is about to be removed by the demolition of Toward Pier near Innellan. The pier which is built of pitch pine, has been showing signs of decay lately, and owing to parts breaking looses and floating down the estuary, threatened to become a menace to shipping.

“The length of the gangway is approximately 240 feet, and the pierhead 75 feet. The demolition work will be carried through by Mr James White, shipbreaker and salvage contractor, North Queensferry, to whom the pier has been sold. The material will be taken to Mr White’s yard at North Queensferry.

“Since the closing of the pier some time ago ships have called at Innellan.”—Edinburgh Evening News, November 7, 1932.

A steamer rounding Toward Point

Earlier in 1932, some excitement was caused on the toward shore when one of the steamships laid up in Rothesay Bay broke her moorings.

Steamers laid up in Rothesay Bay around 1935

Steamers laid up in Rothesay Bay around 1935

Trojan Star laid up in Rothesay Bay in August 1935

“Return of a storm in the West—Severe wintry, conditions were experienced in the West Highlands yesterday. There was heavy snowfall on Argyll, Mull, and Morven mountains. A thunderstorm was experienced in North Argyll early in the morning. The Loch Lomond hills have fresh coating of snow. There are also stormy seas in the West, and yesterday the Union Castle liner Chepstow Castle, one of the idle ships in Rothesay Bay, broke her moorings and was blown across to the shore, taking ground near Toward Lighthouse. An attempt to pull her off high tide failed, and the tugs are standing by to make another attempt.”—Edinburgh Evening News, April 8 1932.

Chepstow Castle ashore at Toward

“Chepstow Castle ashore.—Efforts to refloat her in Rothesay Bay fail. At high tide yesterday afternoon an attempt was made to refloat the Union-Castle liner Chepstow Castle (7,500 tons and built in 1913), which broke from her moorings at Rothesay Bay in a squall and went ashore. The efforts to refloat her were, however, unsuccessful, but a Union-Castle official told a reporter that a further attempt would made by tugs at the next high tide at midnight. The liner was laid up in Rothesay Bay and has nobody on board except the watch crew in charge. As far as is known no damage has been done.”—April 8, 1932

“The Union Castle liner Chepstow Castle (7,494 tone), which, while laid up in Rothesay Bay, Firth of Clyde, broke from her moorings on April 7 and went ashore at Toward Point, was refloated yesterday.”—April 21, 1932

Toward Light in the 1950s (Ralston)