At the beginning of the steamboat age, Dunoon was not regarded of great importance. It consisted of a few houses and most important, a ferry-inn, the abode of the ferryman on the crossing to the Cloch. In 1820, it is described in Lumsden’s Steamboat Companion:—

“The Steam Boats, if required, will land passengers at Dunoon; from whence there is also a road to Inverary by Strachur, to which place gigs can be had, at a moderate rate. From Strachur there is a regular ferry across Lochfine to Creggans, and where boats can be procured direct to Inverary the distance up the loch being about 5 miles

“Dunoon is of considerable antiquity, and was once the seat of a castle, very important in point of situation, and often the scene of contest during the violent struggles of clanship. Near the latter period of episcopacy in the Highlands, it was the occasional residence of the bishop of Argyle; but such is the mutability of human affairs, that hardly a stone of this fortress remains, a quantity of rubbish only being visible to point out the place where once it stood.”

Twenty or so years later, another guide-book describes the advances brought upon it by the steamboat age.

“Unlike its neighbour, Gourock—Dunoon has been altogether created by steam, and a very fine creation it certainly is. Twenty-five years ago, there was little else of building to be seen in the place except the picturesque ruin of the Castle, an old church, and a few wretched thatchers, with the fire on the floor, and the smoke escaping through the crevices—in fact, the houses might be said to smoke at every pore. At the period alluded to, well do we remember “tumbling the wulcat”on a beautiful green velvet sward, where now stands the most interesting and populous part of the village. There is a witness to the fact still living, as brisk and merry as a cricket, and just as ready for a tumble as he then was. Long may he live to assist in “Chronicle”-ing” the marvels of the day. Then there was but one place where a “refreshment” could be procured, and that consisted solely and wholly of “whisky and oat cakes,” the spirits, if we recollect rightly, being drunk out of a tea cup, as crystal was scarce. Our highly respected and patriotic townsman, Mr. Ewing, now of Levenside, struck with the natural beauty of the place, was the first to bring it into general notice, by the erection of his magnificent marine residence, after designs by David Hamilton; and from that moment the hut and hamlet of the village have given way to mansions and cottages for our wealthy citizens. And now in the space of a few years, there is every comfort of a refined community,—beautiful houses and cottages,a la Brighton, pretty new churches, druggists’, bakers’, fleshers’, and cloth shops, reading rooms, and commercial hotels! Where, on a Saturday evening, in thepublic rooms—for they have attained to that degree of refinement already—you will see a company as mixed and respectable as can be found in any similar place of resort!

“We have not discovered anywhere a more happy imitation of the good-humoured free-and-easy conduct of a London tavern than we witnessed on Saturday at the Commercial Inn and Hotel in the thriving village of Dunoon—where, while one enjoyed a lounge on the sofa, reading a favourite author—another discussed the conduct of the greedy Inversnaid boatmen and Stewart’s barracks at the Trossachs with a companion—a third, a jolly Englishman, smoked his cigar in silent and perfect satisfaction, over and anon casting a benevolent glance at a good-humoured, fresh and ruddy, fourteen stone Scotchman opposite, who had doffed his coat that he might enjoy in freedom his glass of whisky toddy, and one of Baird’s superior Woodvilles!

“As we have said above, nothing remains of the old village, except a few thatched hovels, left as a remnant for contrast with the comfortable dwellings by which they are now surrounded in every direction. If a person was called upon to prove the wonders produced by steam, there is no place on the Clyde, or elsewhere, that could be selected better calculated than Dunoon for his purpose. The fine houses on the shore, and also on the rising ground above it, from the Bulwood to the Lazarette, and round by the head of the Holy Loch to Kilmun, are evidence of the fact. We do not wonder that Dunoon has become a favourite resort of our princely merchants and industrious, deserving tradesmen; for, take it all in all, it is certainly one of the most picturesque and beautiful places on our celebrated coast.

“What splendid views of mountains and misty glens, woods and green-fields, sea, castles, light-houses, and waterfalls, there are to be seen from that most charming eminence, the old Castle Hill! On a beautiful calm summer day, we consider this as one of the very finest in all broad Scotland! It is bounded, and the eye can grasp it all.—In a sort of pleasing enchantment we have sat on that spot for hours, dreaming of Haco, old castles, Barons bold, proud dames, and when “’Twas merry in the hall when beards wagg’d all,” until the dashing of the waves on the rocks below, and the sight of the last steamer for the City which flourishes “by the preaching of the Word,” reminded us that the days of chivalry and beards were fled. And that it was necessary to discard our phantasies, that we might be off to our old and highly unromantic duties in the smoky town!

“How much of beauty and comfort has been recently added to Dunoon by the fine sea-shore walk around the Castle Hill! In connection with this improvement, we know we but express the sentiments of the people of Dunoon, as well as the casual visitor, when we say that to Mr. William Campbell, of Dunoon Castle, a gentleman respected and beloved wherever honest and honourable feeling exists, a debt of deep gratitude is due for the assistance he rendered towards that object. The good works of that man—here and everywhere—shall live after him—and his name shall yet become a “household word” to prompt our children and our children’s children, to deeds of charity and mercy, and all the social virtues! Nor were we less gratified to find our worthy old townsman, Mr. Dugald M‘Fie, “respeckit like the lave,” and associated with every generous and patriotic enterprise for the benefit of those about him. After all, “There’s nae folk like our ain folk.”

“By the way, while on these matters, we may mention that a good deal of dissatisfaction was expressed to us at the manner in which a tax of ten shillings is levied on all householders to keep up a bad road on another part of the shore. We are informed that whether a person’s stay is for a week or six months this impost is levied, which certainly looks very like a hardship, if it be not one. The comical regulation, too, at the wooden quay, of paying a penny toget on, when meeting or taking leave of a friend, and another toget off, is also accounted a rather inconvenient exaction. The quay, however, is a great advantage, and it is but right it should be upheld. Some people imagine this might be better done by a tax on all steamers that touch there. Our opinion is that these vessels are taxed quite enough already.

“We had almost forgotten to allude to one of the most charming spots in the whole district, namely, Glenmorag, or, as it is familiarly termed, “Mr. Malcom’s Glen.” Glenmorag lies between Dunoon and the Bullwood. To know the extent of the beauties of that delightful spot—its arbours, its waterfalls, its fragrant luxuriousness,—it must be visited in sunshine after a shower.

“All that is requisite to complete Dunoon is a bridge at Boggyburn, leading to the beautiful villas of Mr. Malcolm, Professor Buchanan, Bailie Hamilton, Mr. John Cree, Mr. Wilson, Captain Thomson, Captain Collier, and that of Mr. Hyde—the most lovely spot of them all. On the other shore there is Ericht Bank, a charming place, which has been entirely made by the proprietor, Mr. Leadbatter. Bailie Edmiston, and others, have also fine villas in the same quarter.

“The bell of the old church, which warned, in other days, the villagers to their devotions, now lies in its rotten frame-work in the kirkyard, its tongue being strongly strapped to a part of the wooden plank by which it is hung. “You wad nae doot wish that your Bell’s tongue was as weel tied,” said one of the natives to his fellow. “O, nae doots, nae doots, ava,” retorted Dugald M‘Callum, loud enough to be heard by all present; “but ma Pell’s tongue is no an“alarm”pell, like your Kirsty’s.” Thought the play on the word rather good to be done extempore, and suspected the same drama had been enacted before by the parties—who seemed to be employed in repairing the tower of the church—and from whom we learned that the newbell placed there, was also a presentation by Mr. Camp-“bell”.

“Nearly all the houses on the shore are let—the most of them to Glasgow families—as a walk the other night to the Lazarette along with a friend, convinced us—the “kent faces” being almost as numerous in that beautiful locality as they are in the Trongate of our own spirited and noble city!God save the Queen!

“N.B.—The people of Dunoon are well supplied with Kirks—there are two very handsome ones—Established and Dissenting. We heard a very sensible preacher in the afternoon in the Established Church last Sunday—but he was just a“leetle too dreigh”.It is a great mistake to prolong any service more than two hours. After the first hour and half the generality of people get fidgety, and then the thing does them no good.—If clergymen would make one of the wisest and best ministers in our Church, the Very Rev. Principal Macfarlan, their example in that respect, and in all other matters of prudence, they would find it for their advantage.”—Watering Places, 1840

The Pier at Dunoon

Although there was a jetty at Dunoon from an early date, it was not suitable for steamboats and a steamboat pier was constructed in 1835, as documented in the New Statistical Account a decade later.

“Neither Dunoon nor Kilmun has hitherto been known as a shipping port. As an instance of parochial enterprise, and the first of its kind locally on record, it is not unworthy of notice, that this year a schooner of upwards of 80 tons burthen was built, rigged, and launched at Dunoon, by Messrs Dugald. Malcolm, and Daniel M‘Larty of this place, and is now employed in foreign trade, ranking as a first-class vessel at Lloyd’s, appropriately named the Spokesman, the English signification of her builders’ surname. Under this head too, though not strictly belonging to it, it may be noticed, that to obviate the inconvenience of landing from steamers in open boats, a private joint-stock Company was entered into in the year 1835, for the object of erecting a pier or jetty, at which steamers might touch at all states of the tide. The object has thoroughly succeeded. The jetty extends 130 yards from the shore into about 4½ fathoms water, and has seven feet water at its extremity at the lowest tide. A pontage of one penny is levied on every passenger landing or embarking, and proportional rates upon goods, furniture, &c. Though requiring pretty extensive repairs annually, it in understood to yield a good return for the capital invested. It is an immense accommodation and benefit to the village and parish. A more substantial quay, of solid masonry, has been erected by Mr Napier at Kilmun, rendering the landing there easy and comfortable at every state of the tide.”

Dunoon in 1844 (Dunoon Civic Week Brochure)

The penny pontage was collectable both coming and going but was considerably less expensive than the ferryman’s fee that applied prior to the opening of the structure. The Pier Company was able to lease the pier for a considerable sum.

“On Thursday afternoon the beautiful and swift-sailing steamer, Craignish Castle, started from the flag-staff at the harbour at eleven minutes past four o’clock, and after stopping at all the ferries on the river, and at Greenock, (where she was detained seven minutes,) Gourock, and Kirn, reached Dunoon pier at thirty-four minutes past six, having made the passage in exactly two hours and twenty-three minutes, including all stoppages.—Glasgow Constitutional.”—Greenock Advertiser, May 19, 1846

“Dunoon Pier.—To Let. For One or Three Years, in Tenant’s option, the Per Dues. Entry, the 26th May. Sealed Offers, marked “Pier,” to be given in or before the 15th March to the Secretary, Mr M‘Phee, Postmaster, who will give every requisite information. The Committee do not bind themselves accept of the highest offer. Dunoon, 1846.”—Greenock Advertiser, February 12, 1847

A storm in December of 1848 wrecked the pier and it was closed to traffic until the following May.

“The scene at Dunoon during the raging of the tempest was awfully grand, the waves crashing right up over nearly the whole village. £5000 will, we understand, scarce repair the injury done. About four o’clock, the centre of the pier gave way, and the erection is now nearly destroyed. Large portions of the roads along the East and West Bays are washed away, and are now, of course, impassable. The walls built by the feuars in front of their respective pieces of ground, with the ornamental gateways, railings, &c., have not only been knocked down but have absolutely disappeared, having been washed bodily into the channel of the river. Hunter’s Quay has shared the same fate; but we believe the pier at the Kirn escaped.”—Caledonian Mercury, Thursday, December 21, 1848

“Our readers who frequent the coast will be happy to learn that Dunoon Quay, which was damaged by the late storm is about to be repaired, and arrangements are being entered into to get it finished by the month of April. The inconvenience of the landing and embarking of passengers by small boats will thus be got over sooner than was at first anticipated.”—Greenock Advertiser, February 6, 1849.

“Dunoon.—The pier at this delightful watering-place (which was all but destroyed during the gales in December last) has been thoroughly repaired, and passengers are now landed on it by the steamers.”—Greenock Advertiser, May 1, 1849.

The flavour of the steamers on the Clyde at this time can perhaps be gleaned from the following article.

“River competition and steamboat racing.—We observe, with much regret, that competition of a very virulent kind has commenced this week on the Clyde, and should it continue as it has hitherto gone on; it may lead to something disastrous. This has been caused by a new steamer called the Eclipse having been put on the station between Glasgow and Dunoon—a territory which has hitherto been worked almost exclusively by the Castle Company, and which regards this new candidate for public favour in the light of an intruder. It may be stated generally, that the various watering places on the Frith of Clyde are accommodated with steam communication by five Companies or associations, which, though separate in interest, are yet agreed in this, that the one shall not encroach on the territory which has been occupied by the other. For instance, the Castle Company, having perhaps the finest and largest fleet of the kind in the kingdom; takes the north side of the Clyde from Kilmun to Inverary; including Dunoon and Rothesay, and all the ferries along the route. The Largs Company takes the south side, from Innerkip to Arran, including Wemyss Bay, Largs, Fairlie, and Millpott, in Cumbrae. A third company takes up Helensburgh and the Gareloch. A fourth, the new watering place of Kilreggan, Ardentinny, Lochgoil, and Arrochar. And a fifth takes up, exclusively, the Dumbarton trade, and the route so far to Lochlomond. Greenock is common to all, and Gourock is common to all that pass Greenock. Now, although it would be ridiculous to say that any class of steamboat owners have the right to navigate this or that portion only the Clyde to the  exclusion of new-comers, still, practically, the public have been great gainers by the system of forbearance which the several companies have shown to each other. On the tacit understanding that present arrangements were not likely to be disturbed on slight grounds, capital has been invested to an immense extent in these river steamers; the Clyde boats have become proverbial over the world for beauty speed, and safety; and a class of men have been trained up to command them, of whom it is the best recommendation to say that, notwithstanding the thousands who traverse the Clyde daily in the summer season, and the vast numbers who are taken in from open boats, such a thing as an accident is scarcely ever heard of. We trust the trade is reasonably remunerative to all concerned, but surely a fare of 1s. 3d. for a cabin passage of more than 30 miles to Dunoon or 9d. in the steerage, with one cwt. of luggage in addition, is about as low as the thing can be done to allow something for risk and capital (for there is no insurance in the case of these steamers), after wages and other outlay are paid. These companies draw at perhaps four-fifths of their remuneration during five months in Autumn, but as a matter of honour they keep up a daily communication with all the watering villages in Winter when the trade is not remunerative, and indeed does not pay itself. We have selected the fares for Dunoon, simply because we started with an allusion to it, but on all parts of the Clyde, both North and South, the accommodation is correspondingly good and moderate in price. Now, so long as conveyance can be secured in these steamers so often, so regularly, and so cheaply, we do not hail with satisfaction any competition which will dislocate this state of things, and carry the system of profitless rivalry into other or all the stations on the Clyde. Should it continue, we can foresee ruinously low fares, of ricketty steamers, ignorant or reckless captains,—and all to end in rates augmented beyond their present scale to make up for the money which has been squandered during the contest. Like in the case of war expenses, the public must pay all the cost of the fighting in the long run.

“Meanwhile the racing and chasing on the Clyde are going on fast and furious. The Castle Company, resenting what they deem an encroachment on territory which they have nursed have placed a fine steamer alongside of the Eclipse, and both start from the Broomielaw at the same hour, and keep up the contest all down the Clyde, and then across the Frith to the Kirn and Dunoon. As they are both admirable vessels, it is often a “neck and neck” affair, and this system is, kept up during the entire day, in the course of which two trips are made each way. For these special runs the fares have been reduced by the Castle Company to 4d. in the cabin and 2d. in the steerage, and by the Eclipse to 1d. and 3d. respectively. Already accidents have occurred, but happily they are not as yet of a serious kind. The Eclipse, on Monday, in her hurry to be off, started from Greenock before her gangway was drawn ashore, and two persons were tumbled into the water, but they were got out without sustaining any injury; a similar occurrence took place at Renfrew; and if we are not mistaken, the captains of both vessels will be arraigned before the River Bailie Court for breach of the river regulations. If this system should continue, we will have, as a matter of course, the upsetting of boats at the ferries while engaged in landing or putting on board passengers; or perhaps something worse. In plain fact, we may look forward to collisions and explosions should this virulent competition continue. We trust the authorities will do all in their power to repress it; but better still, we hope the parties themselves will call common sense and prudence to their aid, and abate a game which must be a losing one to both, and from which both may reap a bitter harvest.

“That the present companies may have occasionally given cause for dissatisfaction, is not unlikely; but it is for their own to interest to grant reasonable accommodation and concessions when asked; and we are informed this course has been uniformly followed. At the same time each coast family, or class of families, cannot expect that a steamer is to come and go for their convenience alone. We should consider competition laudable, and rejoice to see it, when high fares are exacted in virtue of a monopoly—when accommodation is inadequate, or officials saucy. But we do not know that these grievances exist on the Clyde during the present season.”—Glasgow Herald, July 5, 1850.

The competition was short lived as the Castle Company was effectively sold the following season and the Eclipse met an unfortunate end a few years later.

“Loss of the Steamer Eclipse.—We regret to report that the fine steamer Eclipse, consort of the Wellington, was lost on the Gantocks rocks, near Dunoon, on Tuesday, while in charge of the pilot, Captain Barrie being unable from illness to remain on board in performance of his usual duty. About twelve o’clock on Tuesday, the Eclipse, on her downward trip, was turning into Dunoon, rather close on the Gantocks, and the danger of her position being perceived, she was backed, but not sufficiently to avoid the imminent peril, for, on the steam being again put on, the vessel ran on a ledge of rock, and remained balanced on her middle, with the bow and stern over deep water. Naturally, a good deal of alarm was manifested by the passengers, but as the steamer remained whole and stationary, they were all got off safely in small boats, and landed at Dunoon. Intelligence of the “untoward” oceurrence was immediately forwarded to Mr. M‘Allister, the agent of the company, and to the owner, Mr. M‘Kellar, Glasgow. With the greatest promptitude, measures were devised for getting the Eclipse off the rock, and carried to some place of comparative safety; and on the same evening, Mr. M‘Kellar, and Mr. M‘Allister, and a number of men, sailed hence in a tug for the Gantocks. The intention was to set the men to pump out the water, stop the leak with clay and other suitable material, and carry her off by the tug on the top of tide. On Wednesday morning, while the men were actively engaged at the pumps, the back of the Eclipse suddenly broke, to the great consternation of all on board. As, however, the separation was not complete, no person was injured, nor even immersed. The Eclipse cannot now, by any possibility, be got off. The engine, which does not appear to be damaged, will required to be removed piecemeal while the weather remains fine; and it is difficult to say whether the hull can be broken up, and removed in fragments, before it gives way and sinks in deep water. We understand that the Eclipse cost between £3000 and £4000. She was not insured.—[Truly, this may be called “Another steamer thrown away.” One would as soon think of a vessel running against Ailsa Craig in broad day light, as against the Gantocks. We have been informed that the pilot, under whose charge the vessel was wrecked, was the first to make off.]”—Glasgow Herald, September 8, 1854.

Despite the convenience of the pier and the safety it provided for those embarking and disembarking, there was much annoyance at the fee paid at the turn-style. The good folk of the town began to realize that the profits to the Pier Company were substantial. An article appeared from a correspondent in the Glasgow Herald who had obtained a letter suggesting that the charges of the Pier Company might well be illegal and supportive of the idea of an alternative pier, that would be free, would aid in the development of the town.

“Dunoon Pier.—Much dissatisfaction has at all times been experienced, not only at the Dunoon Pier, but at all others along our coast, at which a penny is paid by every passenger each time he lands or embarks, as well as similar payments for parcels or luggage. The charge is disliked more on account of its vexatious character than for its amount. Should a person accompany a friend to the end of the pier, to see him away, he must pay a penny, or should he walk to the end of the wharf to welcome one, he must still come down with his copper. Now, there is no comparison, either in point of cheapness, comfort, safety, between landing from open boat, and stepping ashore from steamer, on a substantial pier. But the question arises, is the prime cost of these landing piers never to be paid, and are the dues to be as permanent as the national debt? Passengers step freely ashore Gourock, Rothesay, Largs, Millport, &c., &c., without wriggling themselves through a toll-box; and here there are good stone quays which are supported by the charges on merchandise. It is most desirable, therefore, that some modification and eventual change should be made at those landing piers, where the penny impost exists; and we have no doubt that these watering places themselves would be much benefitted by it, while the travelling and “saut-water” public would appreciate the relief. The feuars, and other inhabitants, of Dunoon have been for some time moving in this matter, and we insert the following letter addressed to them in November last by the Commissioners of Woods and Forests, but which was only transmitted to us last week:—

“Office of Woods and Forests, 7th November, 1850.—On the part of the Commissioners Her Majesty’s Woods, &c., I have to advert to the petition submitted in July last by you and others, feuars and inhabitants of Dunoon, representing that the dues charged at the existing pier of Dunoon are excessive, and requesting the grant of a portion of the rock or shore of the Clyde opposite the Old Castle of Dunoon, site for the erection thereon of a new pier. And I have to acquaint you that, without at present giving any decision as to granting a site for a new pier, the Board entertain great doubts to the legality of the dues hitherto exacted at the existing pier.

“Under these circumstances, I have to recommend the memorialists to ascertain, by the opinion of counsel of eminence, whether such dues can be levied without the authority of Parliament. If it should be the opinion of such counsel that the dues are illegal, the Board would suggest the possible course of all parties interested, concurring in an application to Parliament for an Act to authorize the erection of a sufficient pier, with power to levy suitable and moderate dues.

“In the event of this course being eventually adopted, the Board will be prepared to consider favourably any facilities which can be given for the public accommodation.—l am. Sir, your most obedient servant, F. Kennedy.—Mr J. M‘Arthur Moir.”—Glasgow Herald, March 3, 1851

The response from one of the pier shareholders was swift.

“Dunoon Pier. To the Editor of the Glasgow Herald. Dunoon, 5th March, 1851. Sir,—The paragraph in your paper of last Monday relative to the Dunoon pier, gave an aspect to the matters treated of, which, more narrowly looked at, they will be found not to bear.

“The shopkeepers and feuars of the place owe a considerable debt of gratitude, whether they own it or not, to the few persons who advanced and risked their money for the erection of the present pier. That the risk has been very considerable, has been too well established by the fact that some three years ago the erection was all but carried away—more than half the original cost having been expended in repairing it; even so lately as six weeks ago, the like occurrence had very nearly been experienced. Had the “authority of Parliament” been waited for, there had, up to this hour, been no pier at Dunoon. And in this case just consider for a moment what would have been the present condition of the place, and of its shopkeeping interests, and those of Mr. John M‘Arthur Moir, as compared with what the pier has unquestionably done for them. And if the proprietors incurred an additional risk by proceeding without an act of Parliament, those, who have been so greatly benefitted ought to be still the more thankful for the boon.

“The dues exacted have not been “excessive;” but on the contrary, have been lower than they ought to have been to afford a fair remuneration to those who advanced the money. The truth of this may be very readily tested. From the average per centage that has been divided, let any one deduct a per centage adequate to the sea risk, as ascertained by experience, and it will be found that there will remain a per centage not exceeding that which is got from bank and railway investments, if so much.

“I am informed that the pier committee have expressed their perfect willingness to give to the party now desirous of having it a free landing, the power of effecting this on very reasonable terms, viz,—either to sell the pier to the said party at what it is worth, or to let it on perfectly fair terms, with reference to the sea risk and cost of ordinary repairs, whether sustained by the one party or the other. That it would be much preferable to the present system that the public should be enabled to land and depart free, no one will for a moment differ from you in opinion.

“The exaction of 1d. from those desirous of seeing their friends off, and of meeting them on arrival, is rendered requisite by the same consideration that prevents the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway Co. from allowing any person to accompany his friend to the carriages when departing—namely, to avoid confusion and risk of accidents.

“Now, a word as to the stone piers at Rothesay, Largs, and Gourock, to which you allude. These are places thoroughly sheltered from the south and south-west, whereas Dunoon is wholly exposed. Hence the same strength of mason-work would by no means, suffice at the latter place, so that probably eight or ten thousand pounds would be requisite for a sufficient and durable structure in stone,—the “suitable, and moderate rates” of which would, in one shape or other, necessarily be three or four times those now complained of.—I am, sir, your obedient servant, A shareholder of Dunoon Pier.,

“[Our part in this matter is merely to reiterate the statement, that the Glasgow public visiting Dunoon object to the penny a toll vastly, but more from its annoying character than the amount of the money; and if it be continued on its present footing, this pretty watering-place will undoubtedly suffer. If the shareholders of the pier have not received a better per centage than that got from railway investments of late years the concern is to be pitied; but when our correspondent introduced this subject, he should have added the balance-sheet.]”—Glasgow Herald, March 7, 1851

Of course, the response could not go unchallenged and the alternative viewpoint was given an airing.

“Dunoon Pier. (To the Editor of the Glasgow Herald.)— Sir, We will feel obliged by your inserting, at an early, date, the following remarks in reply to a letter by a shareholder of Dunoon Pier, which appeared in your paper of the 7th inst.

“The shareholder in his letter says, “the shopkeepers and feuars of Dunoon owe a debt of gratitude to the few persons, who advanced and risked their money for the erection of the present pier.” Such a debt, we believe, is now by them freely acknowledged for the time past.

“The shareholder states farther, “that the risk has been very been considerable, from the fact that some three years ago the erection was all but carried away, and more, than half the original cost has been expended in repairing it.” Now, it may be here stated, that this has been the first casualty experienced during the term of 17 or 18 years, the time elapsed since the pier was put up, and it may not occur again for an indefinite number of years. Again, he says, “the dues exacted have not been excessive, and the average per centage to shareholders does not exceed what is got from bank and railway investments, if so much.” Now, in reply, it is well known to shareholders that the rent of the pier for one and a half, or not exceeding two years, paid by the tacksman, covered all the expense of repairing all the damage done by the storm alluded to, which the shareholder states as above was more than half of the original cost of erection. The question regarding excessive dues may therefore be easily solved by an easy exercise in simple proportion: thus, if one and a half year’s rent yields half of the original cost, how many years’ rent will be required to pay the whole cost of erecting the Dunoon Pier? The result will show that if the dues have not been excessive the interest being pocketed by the “philanthropic few” to whom we owe “the debt of gratitude,” at least, was “exorbitant.” We may state that, as the pier owners were paid no dividend for two years until the expense of damage was paid, that now the annual dividend will be as large as ever to them, unless the “charitable few” open their hearts, and be satisfied with an ordinary, 10 per cent, for the few pounds they have exposed to the merciless “sou” and “sou-west” winds.

“A considerable number of the shareholders being feuars and house letters, who of course have an interest in the prosperity of Dunoon, have expressed their willingness to take no dividend, in order to have the pier made free, if the other portions of the shareholders would consent to do the same; but this has been rejected by the latter, they having less interest in Dunoon, and, most unfortunate for us, have a majority in Council. The shareholder states, in his letter, that the Pier Company are willing to sell or let the pier to said party, who are desirous of having it free. But is this in the power of the Company? Is not their term of lease from a superior now within two or three years of expiry? and are they not bound to take a new lease, or give it over to him at a fair valuation either way as the superior may appoint? By the way, can the sea beach be let at a fixed rate to any company? Is it not understood by a recent decision in the House of Lords that it is the property of the Crown? It surely cannot be for the ferry that a lease, is given to the Pier Company, as the pier is never used for this purpose, it being only suitable for steam-boats.

“It may be stated that it is a principle held everywhere through the whole country that bridges and piers are made solely for the benefit of the public, and not for any monopoly or money-making speculation of any private company; and it is usually the practice that, when the public have paid the cost of erection, the bridges or, piers are declared free. We beg to state that, as Dunoon Pier has paid itself, perhaps more than once, it would be very desirable that it should be now free for passengers, to and from steam-boats, with about “1 cwt.” of luggage; and this, we think, might be effected if “ten per cent, per annum” would please the shareholders. The cost of erection not being great, this amount of dividend might easily be raised if the committee of the Pier Company would appoint a person to take charge of the pier at a fixed salary, and charge a moderate rate for barrow and cart loads of luggage, furniture, and merchandise; and if steam-boat proprietors, having boats plying to Dunoon, who wish to have their boats patronized by the public, would see it their interest as well as her their duty to pay annually about a fourth of the sum they pay at other ports in our neighbourhood, which have stone quays, or at least as much as would keep the pier in ordinary repair, the inhabitants of Dunoon and visitors can have no objection to the exaction of a day ticket, price one penny, or the use of the pier paid by those desirous of seeing their friends going and coming steamers to prevent the pier being overcrowded, it being of limited extent.

“If the above suggestion was agreed to, we venture to predict that the income from the above sources would yield clear the above-stated per centage to the Dunoon Pier proprietors, and we are further convinced of this from the fact, that the pier did not cost a fourth of the sum of erection of stone piers not far from Dunoon, and the proprietors of which have not passenger-tax levied, but take their dues from goods and steam boats.

“The inhabitants might also, in the event of another great storm again carrying away the pier, or part of it, raise the amount for repair by subscription; or allow the passengers to be charged, as at present, only until the damage is paid for.

“We believe that the inhabitants are about to take the advice of eminent counsel, as, recommended to them by the Honorable the Board of Commissioners on Woods and Forests; and also to make another application to then for a temporary grant of the Castle Rocks for a free pier, and, if obtained, the expense of erecting said pier will not be great, as the depth of water, about thirty feet from the rocks, is as much as at the head of the present pier; and, if raised high enough, no storm will injure it. But, we trust that, ere the result of either of the above applications reaches us, the Committee of the Pier will see it to be both their interest and their duty to throw open the pier and make it as free of access to all who visit our shores as is the foreign trade to our country; and especially as it is expected that a considerable number of strangers will visit our shores this season on their way from The Exhibition is London; and also as it is likely that many English families will let their houses to distinguished foreigners and come to reside in the beautiful watering places on the Clyde.

“The inhabitants of Dunoon have no other wish than that the pier proprietors and themselves would go hand in hand for the prosperity of the locality, and we are convinced that the abolition of the “penny tax” would considerably increase the influx of strangers in the summer months.

“In conclusion, we thank you for your paragraph at the foot of a “Shareholder’s letter,” and your significant hint anent the “balance sheet,” which is something like Sarah Gamp’s “Mrs. Harris”—often spoken of, but never yet seen by anybody except shareholders.—We are, Sir, your obedient servants, Committee of Inhabitants for a free pier.

“[As we have now allowed both parties a hearing, we cannot insert any further correspondence on this matter, excepting through our advertising columns.]—Glasgow Herald, March 17, 1851

Well might the Glasgow Herald have restrained its readers’ comments on the affair and for a few years the situation was left to the courts. The eventual outcome was that the legality of the dues charged by the pier shareholders was upheld. However, the scale of the profits had been revealed and a hornet’s nest had been disturbed.

“For sale, 10 shares in the Dunoon Pier Association, belonging to a Trust Estate; Dividend last year 20 per Cent. Apply to James MacBride, Writer, 97 West George Street, Glasgow.”—Glasgow Herald, January 22, 1864.

A contributing factor was that the pier was no longer adequate for the bustling traffic that had grown from one or two calls a day by a steamboat in 1835 to more than 32 calls in the 1860s. The steamboats were much also larger and Dunoon had now boasted many attractions and had become a favoured watering place. On any summer Saturday, a single steamer would disgorge as many passengers as would have been landed in a year when the pier was built. When steamboats arrived in the summer months, the crowded pier was a dangerous spot for the unwary, especially when the accumulated effects of drink were involved.

“Disgraceful scene at Dunoon Pier.—To the Editor of the Glasgow Herald. Sir,—I had occasion to be on Dunoon pier on Saturday afternoon, and am sorry to say was the witness of a most humiliating and demoralising scene. At the hour at which the steamer Ionacalls, the pier was one dense mass of people, waiting to be conveyed home to Glasgow; many of them were far from sober, and behaving in any way but a proper manner. About ten minutes before the steamer came alongside several rows were going on, and at the head of the pier a most disgraceful fight took place. Both of the combatants were quite furious, and began pounding away at each other in a most brutal manner, amidst the screams of women and the shouts of those who encouraged it. How long this conduct might have continued no one can tell, had not an inspector of police, who was on the pier, in the most praiseworthy manner separated the combatants, and matched one of them off. What became of him afterwards I cannot say; but I trust he enjoyed his Sunday at the coast, and the pleasant quarters and kind attention he would undoubtedly receive. The other individual rushed down the pier in the most excited and infuriated state, throwing his arms wildly about him, and utterly defying the efforts of a poor girl who was with him, and who was vainly trying to keep him quiet. Using her in a most brutal manner, he rushed to the end of the pier, which was densely crowded and in a most desperate manner tried to get into the water, and into it he would most certainly have been, had he not been kept back by the powerful aid of a gentleman, who, at the risk of receiving blows from the infuriated man, seized him by the coat and dragged him to a place of safety, where be remained till the steamer came alongside. No sooner had it done so than the whole mass of people made one frantic rush for the paddle-box, utterly disregardless of the passengers who had to land. In this rush men, women, and children, alike joined, each in their own way striving to gain the deck of the steamer. Had a heavy sea been on at the time, the consequences might have been most serious; as it was one girl fell down the paddle-box, and was only saved from being in the water by the rail which runs along the saloon deck.

“What our English friends, who were on board, thought of the scene must he guessed; but their opinion must have been anything but favourable of the manners and morality of Glasgow. Too much praise cannot be given the inspector of police and the gentleman who undoubtedly saved the man’s life; but, at the same time, surely further measures should be taken to preserve order and the safety of passengers on such occasions. Some people say they are waiting for the proper leaders in such measures to take action; but if those who ought to take action hang back, let the people take action themselves,—I enclose my card, and remain yours, &c.—Looker-on.” Glasgow Herald, September 6, 1864

Events came to a head in August 1865 when a correspondent’s report on the annual meeting of the Dunoon Pier Company was published in the Glasgow Morning Journal, along with an editorial.

“A Thriving Company.—We do not often hear of Dunoon Pier Company, nor are we often favoured with reports of its annual meetings, or with at its dividend. A correspondent, however, has kindly supplied us with an account of the proceedings of the last annual meeting of the company, which was held so lately as Saturday. From what he says it is very clear that the enterprising company which collects pennies the from passengers and perambulators at the pier of the pretty watering place of Dunoon enjoys a degree of prosperity which rarely falls to the lot of ordinary stock concerns. For many years the stockholders have been receiving “incredibly large toe dividends” but this year they have received larger ones than ever. On Saturday a dividend of 30 per cent. was ordered paid to the shareholders and in addition each received a bonus of £2 per £5 share. The company has been so prosperous indeed, that some of the shareholders have begun to think shame of themselves, and are agitating in favour of a reduction of the rates on goods and passengers. Three gentlemen, at the meeting on Saturday, were attacked by some members the company, and condemned as traitors to the cause of 70 per cent and everlasting pier dues. A Mr Oswald had the temerity to say that he “gloried” in trying to get the dues reduced, but he, along with two others of like mind, were summarily punished for their commercial laxity by being expelled from office. The result is, therefore, that those of the public who visit Dunoon with carpet bags and perambulators must either pay the never-failing pennies or carry their luggage in their pockets.”—Glasgow Morning Journal, August 10, 1865.

“Dunoon Pier Company (from a correspondent).—The annual meeting of this prosperous company was held at Dunoon on Saturday last—Allan Carswell Esq., occupied the chair. The fortunate shareholders in this concern have for many years been receiving almost incredibly large dividends, and this year, their prosperity is beyond precedent. A dividend of 30 per cent. was ordered to be paid to the shareholders; ad in addition to this handsome profit on their investment in the pier, they each receive a bonus of £2 per share. The capital is held in £5 shares, so that altogether, the partners in this joint stock company receive for the year a profit of £70 per centum on their investment. Can any other concern in the kingdom show such splendid revenue? The general public think it might satisfy even the most rapacious, and clamour for a reduction in the rates levied upon goods and passengers. But at the meeting on Saturday, it was made fully manifest that to moot the idea of a reduction in the tarrif is, in the judgment of the largest shareholders, the one great sin for which they can grant no forgiveness. After the annual report of the committee had been read and some other business transacted, the re-election of the committee was moved by the Rev. D. Stewart and seconded by J. Taylor, Esq., Dunoon.

“George Paterson, Esq., Ann Street, Glasgow, opposed this, and moved an amendment excluding three of the old committee, on the grounds that they had tried get the rates reduced. He charged Messrs Oswald, Macphie, and Mercer with deliberate hostility to the interests of the pier company, because they had, for a long time, been agitating in the committee for a reduction in the tariff.

“In the course somewhat stormy discussion, Mr Oswald said that he gloried in trying to get the rates reduced, both for the credit of the pier company itself, and for the good of the community.

“Mr Macphie then retorted that, with all his apparent zeal now for the interests of the company, Mr Paterson had yet prevented the committee from receiving an offer from which they would have gained no less than £200. When they were letting pier he (Mr Macphie) had wished to compete for it with an offer of £200 more than the present rental, backed on by ample security; but Mr Paterson, for reasons of his own, and with the help of his friends had prevented everybody from competing with the present favoured tenant.

“By the aid of proxies, the amendment carried, and the three advocates of reduction were punished by extrusion from office.”—Glasgow Morning Journal, August 10, 1865.

A torrent of letters to the Editor ensued. Many critical of the pier company and one suggested an arrangement between Mr Paterson and the piermaster, Mr M‘Leod. The chairman and secretary of the Company remained silent and the principal spokesman for their side of the argument appeared to be the piermaster. His response asserted that the correspondent did “not appear to be a devout worshipper in the temple of truth.” The ancient history was rehashed to justify the profits. The piermaster denied that there was any arrangement with Mr Paterson. It was learned that the capital issued was somewhere less than £910, two-thirds of which was in the hands of just five families, and the rental paid was £800.

One letter suggested that there was an agreement with the piermaster at Kirn to receive and deliver goods to Dunoon customers at a rate 25% below the rate at Dunoon. This was quickly refuted by the Kirn piermaster.

The piermaster complained about the agitation for the reduction in dues but this eventually the most fruitful approach for the public. Within a few weeks there was a strong movement for the erection of a free pier in competition with the old pier. Legal advice was taken and subscriptions raised.

“Proposed free pier for Dunoon. A movement has been inaugurate for erecting a free pier at Dunoon. The present pier was erected by a company that was formed in the year 1835, but the heavy dues levied by the company have from tine to time caused great dissatisfaction among the inhabitants. On Tuesday evening a crowded meeting was held in the parish school-room to consider the propriety of electing a free pier. At that meeting a statement was made to the effect that, in answer to inquiries on the subject, Mr. John Patton, W.S, Edinburgh, had given it as his opinion that the rates at present levied were illegal. The following resolutions were unanimously adopted:—

“1. That in the opinion of this public meeting of the inhabitants of Dunoon, the exaction of such high rates as are charged on passengers and goods at Dunoon pier has been and is very injurious to the interests and prosperity of the place, and the fruitful source of annoyance, irritation, and complaint.

“2. That the pier of Dunoon was erected for the public good of the district, and not for mere private advantage or personal aggrandisement; that the large dividends paid in years past have sufficiently remunerated the shareholders, and that it is unreasonable and unjust to monopolise the only seaward entrance to Dunoon for the sake of enriching a few families of shareholders.

“3. That the present shareholders of Dunoon Pier Company, by expelling three of their directors, on the ground that they sought the reduction of the tariff, show that the public can have no longer any hope of relief from the Pier Company, and that the time has now fully come for the public to endeavour to erect a new pier.

“4. That the following gentlemen, with power to add to their number, be appointed a committee, with instructions to prepare and forward a memorial to the Crown, signed by the chairman in the name of this public meeting of the inhabitants of Dunoon, and to take all other steps necessary for erection of a new pier.

“A considerable sum was subscribed on the spot for the preliminary expenses, and promises were also given that the full capital for the erection of a new pier would be forthcoming when required.”—Glasgow Herald, August 25, 1865

“Dunoon proposed new pier.—The dissatisfaction prevailing amongst many of the residenters at Dunoon against the high rate of tariff charged at the present pier having taken a tangible form, the committee appointed at a meeting held sometime ago proceeded to receive subscriptions for the new pier, when amongst the gentlemen forming the committee a sum of £850 was put down in the course of twenty minutes. It was agreed to raise £3000, and up till Saturday the list showed over £1500. It is expected that the whole sum will be subscribed by the middle of this week. It is the intention of the subscribers to open the new pier free of charge, if possible, or to have only a nominal charge on goods.”—Glasgow Herald, September 12, 1865

The bill submitted to Parliament was opposed by Hunter of Hafton who claimed it interfered with his exclusive right of ferry to win the day and it was not successful..

“The new pier. The public will learn with regret that the bill for authorising the construction of the free pier at Dunoon was yesterday before the Committee the House of Commons, and was thrown out —the Committee declaring the preamble not proved. Had this bill passed into law, it would have been relief the public of £1600 annually, and much good would have resulted this place.”—Greenock Telegraph, June 12, 1866

However, the pressure was on the pier company to regain the public goodwill. The new company made an offer to purchase the pier but Mr Hunter of Hafton stepped in and took control of the situation, perhaps sensing that the time was right to protect his investment. The town of Dunoon was on the cusp of adopting the Burgh Act and any delay would only strengthen the hand of the public.

“The Dunoon Pier. This pier, which has been such a bone of contention among the residenters here and the Old Pier Company, had, as many are aware, changed ownership. The New Pier Company, although unsuccessful in trying to get the quay made over to them, will have this satisfaction, that it is out of the possession of their old acquaintances and in the hands of Mr Hunter, of Hafton. It is expected that this enterprising gentleman will either sell it to the new Company or effect some beneficial changes in the tariff arrangements, although he has paid a very high sum for the pier—£2600. This sum is equal to £15 for each of the £5 shares, and considering the heavy dividend received of late, the old pier has been a most profitable investment. We understand the New Pier Company, who intended to prosecute a new bill before the ensuing Parliament, are on the point of trying come to some amicable arrangement with Mr Hunter; but should they fail in attaining of the objects they have hardly fought the old proprietors for, it is probable there may be another Parliamentary contest.”—Greenock Telegraph, October 6, 1866

Mr Hunter had the pier re-built during 1867. It was twice the size of the old pier and could better accommodate the new steamers on the Clyde. A feature was a shelter on the pier and better accommodation. There was also a reduction in the pier dues.

Dunoon Accident. —Yesterday afternoon, about 4 o’clock, while Robert Gray, better known as “Scotch Gray,” one of the carters employed by Mr Phillips at the erection of the new pier, was backing in a load of rubbish towards the embankment, when he miscalculated the distance, and backed the horse too far, causing the animal to fall over about a depth of twenty feet. Strange to say, the poor beast was none the worse of its fall, but after being got up wrought the remainder of the afternoon. Robin is supposed to have been partaking of rather too much “bitter yill,” but when this is hinted, he sternly denies that such was the case.”—Greenock Telegraph, July19, 1867

Dunoon Pier around 1868 (Laing)

An interesting view of the town at the time is presented below.

“Photographs from Dunoon, by a Clyde Cruiser.—The pier at Dunoon, like the village, has rather a stormy history, apart from the tempestuous tides it has to encounter. The rate of one penny, charged for egress and ingress, has at various times been disputed, and attempts, openly and surreptitiously, have been made to get quit of the black mail levied. Some dozen years ago the feud was still lingering, and the taxman, a Gael, remarkable for his fiery complexion and fiery temper, had a sore time of it in struggling against the enemy. Certain parties, held to be dangerous opponents, were allowed to pass Scot free, but woe to those who, without sufficient influence, attempted to affect an equally independent position. A still memorable sight is before us of the Highland toll-taker putting down a rebel by dancing a Caledonian fandango before the astonished passenger; shouting in Gaelic and English various terrible expletives, and hurling Ossianic thunder at the whole beggarly tribe who objected to pay the usual custom. Of course he carried his point, and must have always done until be found some antagonist lusty enough to threaten him with a dive off the pier. The name Cerberus was unfortunate enough to believe in nine per cent of the Western Bank, and having lost his money took a voluntary passage across Styx instead of sending some of the immaculate directory on the same journey, and which a pardonable rage would have given a show of justice to. More recently the Dunoon pier gave rise to serious contention in the village, and with the full details of which the readers of this journal must be thoroughly conversant. It having been discovered that the owners of the pier were working a mine of wealth, a strong opposition was given to the monopoly, and organised endeavours were made to give the public lees costly accommodation. As might have been expected, from the belligerent character of the village, a storm brooded over the pier question, and the violence of which was finally expended in lawyers’ fees and such professional charges as usually bring quarrelsome people to their senses. Concerning the parliamentary and unparliamentary language in which the strife was carried on, it is well perhaps to publish few records; and for the present it will suffice to say that the difficulty will wound up by the old pier coming into the hands of Mr Hunter of Hafton at early date—the consequence of certain manorial rights—and which promises to bring about a great improvement in the pier accommodation. Mr Hunter has already set about the building of the abutments for a new pier, which will occupy the site the old one, and promises to bring with its construction great advantages. The new pier is to be most substantially built, to have easier access, and to be provided with enlarged waiting rooms, a refreshment room, much needed, and other conveniences long wanted. For want of this latter accommodation strangers, and even the villagers themselves, frequent the rocks below the Castle Hill, and the consequence is disgusting in the extreme. Indeed it perfectly abominable to find that the beautiful crags which run out like abutments from the Castle Hill are perfectly unapproachable to any one troubled with sensitive nose, and the most picturesque spot on the whole beach turned into an odious public nuisance. We do not know who the ruling powers over the village may be, but they ought to deal with the nuisance we speak of with a strong hand, and save strangers from believing they have landed among the rudest sort of savages. While in a critical mood some mention might be made of the very limited accommodation for bathing, and the poor arrangements for what might be reckoned a needful privacy. Certain severe ukases have been from time to time issued against the male sex venturing into the sea after a certain hour in the morning within sight of passers-by, and there no reason for objecting to the regulations made. The bathing of stark-naked men within close proximity to habitations is not at all permissible; but, keeping this in view, there is hardly room for a plunge between Hafton House and Innellan pier, unless to early risers. Houses line the beach the whole way, near enough to prevent the necessary privacy; and yet no plan has been taken screen bathers so that they might enjoy a plunge at any hour of the day or state of the tide. How this might be done need not be explained. Elsewhere the difficulty has been got over, and, by a little ingenuity, Dunoon might show an example to other watering places upon our noble river. As it is, it is exceedingly absurd for a stranger to discover that the only chance of indulging in a bath in the Clyde is to undress upon an exposed beach at hour neither the tide nor the temperature may suit. For the protection of female bathers the regulations are more merciful. These are permitted to bathe at any hour of the day, and along the West Bay shoals of mermaids daily disport themselves in the surf. But the protection which a bathing gown affords is at times neither comely nor elegant. With the abandonment of crinoline the taste is not so severely shocked as of yore by the perpendicular style of drapery, but notwithstanding the change of fashion few women are presentable in a bathing gown, the wet folds of which will not permit them to hurry to the trifling shelter they have provided for themselves. It is true that a few bathing houses have been provided for the private houses in the West Bay, but as these are immovable, and are placed above high water mark, they might as well have been fixed in the middle of the village. Promenaders are constantly on the beach and the footway, and these are either aroused or alarmed by the sight of weird-looking women rushing past as fast as the “bauchels” will allow them with streaming elfin locks, scanty garments clinging to their straggling limbs, and bearing a close resemblance, one might fancy, to a bevy of witches newly escaped from a horse-pond where the ordeal of fire and water was being savagely practised. The spectacle is so droll that laughter is the only sentiment provoked, but it may be assumed that if the bathers belonged to the “Sautmarket” instead of the West-End genteelity west of Charing Cross, policemen would be cautioned to lay hold of the immodest interlopers and consign them in their bathing gowns to the lock-up. It would be absurd to condemn the present fashion if none more convenient could invented, but it is quite possible some better plan might be fallen upon than the present one, which makes a guy of the fairest, and renders elderly women hideous to look upon, under the very eyes of passing acquaintances. The West Bay Dunoon would support a few bathing coaches and donkeys—if ponies were too expensive—and the comfort of such an improvement would be immediately recognised. It would be hopeless to propose this innovation to any of the conservative boatmen upon the beach, but some enterprising Sassenach might be encouraged to risk the needful capital. Dunoon is the watering-place where bathing coaches would be most suitable for the beach, and be most likely patronised by the visitors, and it curious enough that no demand for them has already sprung up.”—Glasgow Evening Post, July 27, 1867

The town of Dunoon adopted the Burgh Act in 1868, and the election of the governing Commissioners was held on October 17 of that year. The new Commissioners quickly set about improvements to the town.

Dunoon Pier around 1870 (Banks & Co)

In 1880, improvements were made to the West Bay with the construction of a fine esplanade.

“Opening of the West Bay Esplanade, Dunoon. On Saturday afternoon the newly-completed esplanade along the West Bay of Dunoon was formally opened by Provost Oswald, in presence of a large concourse of ladies and gentlemen. The Provost referred to the movement for widening the old narrow footpath which skirted the beach, and detailed the several steps taken to promote the improvement now happily completed, to the satisfaction of the committee, by Mr Cunningham, at a cost of about £500, of which sum they had already got about £250. Having duly declared the esplanade open, the company walked along the esplanade, the front of which was decorated with flags in honour of the occasion. Afterwards upwards of 50 gentlemen sat down to cake and wine in the Argyll Hotel—Provost Oswald in the chair and Bailie Duncan croupier. Letters of apology were intimated from Col. Bouverie-Campbell of Dunoon, Colonel Anderson of Glenmorag, and other gentlemen connected with the district. Mr Kenneth Macleod, Glasgow, proposed the toast a of “The Prosperity of the Burgh of Dunoon,” and referred to the many improvements which had taken place since he first became connected with the town 30 years ago. Provost Oswald s replied to the toast, and trusted the committee would be placed in possession of sufficient funds to clear off the whole cost of the esplanade. Bailie Miller proposed the “Health of the Contractor.” Mr Cunningham replied. “The Improvement Committee” was next proposed by the Rev. J. Cameron, M.A., and in the course of his remarks he pointed out the many beauties of Dunoon, and expressed the hope that the inhabitants would meet the cost of the work of improving the town by personal subscription as they were enabled. He eulogised the efforts to obtain subscriptions put forth by Commissioner Walter Hutcheson, who responded for the committee, and said that they should not be content till a grand carriage drive was formed 40 feet in width round the whole bay. Mr A. Gilchrist, Dunoon Castle, proposed the “Magistrates and Commissioners of Dunoon,” and referred to the appearance of Dunoon forty years ago, and to the value of the improvement which had that day been celebrated. Bailie Duncan replied, and trusted that in all the work of the burgh the representatives would carry the public along with them. Mr Robb proposed the “Health of the Chairman,” and the meeting separated.

“The new esplanade, which commences at the foot of the Castle Hill, extends about halfway along the shore, thus doing away with the old dangerous narrow footpath, and providing a uniform width of road above the beach. Mr Cunningham was the contractor, and the work, with favourable weather, has been expeditiously and satisfactorily undertaken. The committee have promises of further subscriptions towards making up the £130 still required to clear the cost of the esplanade, which is admitted to be a most substantial improvement.”—Glasgow Herald, September 20, 1880

West Bay around 1910 (Schwarzendruber)

West Bay (Davidson)

West Bay around 1905 (Davidson)

Bullwood looking to West Bay (Ritchie)

West Bay (Davidson)

West Bay beach (Davidson)

The increase in visitors to the town and the new tourist steamers that appeared on the Clyde highlighted the problems of the pier. The North British Railway was also using Dunoon to connect with the tourist steamers and the single berth presented problems with schedules, not to mention the problems of collisions.

“A complaint from Helensburgh.—I wish make public a circumstance which large number paseengers were put great annoyance and inconvenience. I left Helensburgh on board the Dandie Dinmont at 8.45 a m., expecting catch the Bonnie Doon at Dunoon Pier. The flag on board the Dandie Dinmont was hoisted to show the captain of the Bonnie Doon that there were passengers for his vessel. Consider our astonishment on getting within 50 to 100 yards of the Dunoon Pier, to see the Bonnie Doon steam off, followed, I can assure you, by no very pleasant feeling from the disappointed passengers, of whom, by the statement of the clerk the Dandie Dinmont, there were no fewer than 27. It was a loss, not only to the passengers, but to the proprietors which should cause them to give more attention to passengers by the Helensburgh route, seeing that it is so largely patronised this year. Helensburgh, 15th August M. F. T.”—Evening Citizen, August 17, 1870

“The collision near Dunoon pier.—Yesterday, at the River Bailie Court, Glasgow —Bailie MacBean presiding—John Reid, master the passenger steamer Guinevere, and John M‘Kinlay,master of the passenger steamer Dandie Dinmont, were accused having, on the 12th inst., been guilty of reckless conduct in navigating or steering their respective vessels, and both vessels having met or near Dunoon Pier, defendants, or one or other of them, so culpably and recklessly navigated or managed their respective vessels that they came into violent collision, whereby the Guinevere was seriously damaged, and the lives of the lieges on board both vessels endangered. Defendants, who were defended by Mr W. B. Faulds and Mr Borland, pleaded not guilty. Evidence of a contradictory character was led at considerable length, in the course of which it appeared that previous to the collision taking place the passenger steamer Vale of Clyde was lying at Dunoon Pier. The Guinevere was on her upward passage, and the Dandie Dinmont was proceeding west. On nearing Dunoon Pier, both steamers stopped until the Vale of Clyde left the pier. The Guinevere—which several witnesses alleged was in waiting before the Dandie Dinmont, and was thus entitled to the pier—steamed forward, and was struck on the bow by the Dandie Dinmont. Other witnesses alleged that the Dandie Dinmont had the pier first, and that the fault lay with the master of the Guinevere. One gentleman, who observed the collision, gave it as his opinion that both defendants were to blame; that it was nothing short of a race to get the pier first, and hence the collision. After the evidence had been concluded, the Bailie remarked that, although it was clear the Guinevere had the pier first, the master had been somewhat imprudent in approaching when be saw the Dandie Dinmont coming up at the rate she was going. Under the circumstances, however, he found the charge not proven. With reference to the charge against the master of the Dandie Dinmont, he had no difficulty. It was clearly proved that he had acted in reckless manner, and he (Bailie MacBean) fined him in the sum of £5, or 30 days’ imprisonment. The fine was paid.”—Greenock Telegraph, June 22, 1875

“Dunoon.—Yesterday Mr James B. Airn was unanimously elected Bailie, the supporters of Mr M‘Intyre withdrawing his name. The burgh officials were all reappointed. Bailie Miller moved, that a committee be appointed to consider the present steamboat and pier accommodation with the view of having better facilities for those travelling to and from Dunoon, and a deputation was appointed to meet with the trustees of Hafton Estate (the  owners of Dunoon pier), the directors of the North British Railway Company, &c., regarding the same. The several committees of the Board were readjusted.”—Glasgow Herald, November 9, 1880

The Hafton Trustees decided to expand the pier and pay for the improvements by opening up shares in a limited liability company—a return to the system that had caused so many problems in the past. The Dunoon Commissioners made moves to acquire the pier but the cost was unacceptable and the new expansion went forward.

The expansion provided a new berth at the side of the pier for unloading cargo. However, the practice of unloading onto the shore of the East Bay by sailing and steam vessels continued.

The East Bay shore (Valentine)

Puffer in at the coal depot

Sailing gabbert off Barren Rocks (Poulton)

Puffer waiting to unload at the coal depot (Stengel)

“Pier improvements at Dunoon. Workmen are now engaged making extensive improvements Dunoon pier. In view of giving facilities for the increased traffic, the proprietors resolved on erecting large landing stage on the east side. The addition measures 50 feet by 12, and is being solidly piled. The landing stage for passengers will also be much increased. The cost of the whole works is estimated at nearly £l,000.”—Greenock Telegraph, August 9, 1881

Iona at Dunoon Pier around 1880 (Washington Wilson)

In 1889 equipment to signal steamers approaching the pier that they had clearance to proceed was added to the pier. Three disks were used, corresponding to the steamers closest inshore, intermediate and farthest off-shore. The signals were black to indicate hold-back and white to indicate proceed to the pier. At night, the black disk showed red and the white signal showed white. At Dunoon there were two sets, facing north and south, so that traffic in both directions could be controlled by the piermaster.

Viceroy at Dunoon Pier around 1890 showing signal tower (Washington Wilson)

Consideration was given to the amenities for visitors, including the formation of a new esplanade around the pier leading into the East Bay.

“Dunoon.—Provost Oswald presiding. Treasurer Doig’s motion for the formation of an esplanade from the pier to a point off the Barra Rock was delayed for a fortnight. It was agreed to meet Mr Edwards, Edinburgh, on the 19th inst., with reference to the pier quetion. A letter was received from Mr Nimmo, Ashgrove, Kirn, complaining of the dense volumes of black, filthy smoke emitted from the steamers on coming into Kirn piers. The matter was remitted to the Magistrates.”—Glasgow Herald, June 11, 1891

“The proposal of the Dunoon Police Commissioners to offer £50 for the most competitive plan for an Esplanade, laid off between Dunoon and Kirn Piers, is creating some opposition among the ratepayers, several holding that the Commissioners have no power to spend the rates for each a purpose. The grumblers should consider what the Esplanade did for Rothesay. There is such a thing as being penny wise and pound foolish. With the Isle of Man within a few hours’ sail, and Blackpool not very far off, the Clyde coast people can’t exert themselves too much to retain Glasgow trippers around their doors. The temptation to go farther afield is very strong.”—Glasgow Evening Post, August 11, 1891

The town was expanding with new building fitting in with the old.

West Bay

Parish Church built in 1816

Dunoon School from church tower

Efforts by the Dunoon Commissioners to purchase the pier continued. The Hafton Trustees were asking £30,000 for the pier “which would give them pier masters house, offices, restaurant, &c. If the county approved the purchase the Police Board proposed to provide berthing accommodation for two steamers instead of one as at present. An estimated cost for making this extension had been fixed by Messrs Stevenson, engineer, Edinburgh, at £9,000 or £10,000, thus involving a total expenditure of £40,000.” The Commissioners were of the opinion that £20,000 was more appropriate. At a meeting early in October “the Provost said the question for them to consider was, should the pier remain in the bands of private parties, or should it be acquired the burgh. After discussion it was agreed that the statement submitted the Provost should be printed and circulated amongst the ratepayers, and after the course of week or so a plebiscite should be taken.”—Glasgow Evening Post, October 6, 1891.

A storm in October damaged the gangway so that only foot passengers could enter the pier.

“The esplanade a total wreck.—The storm experienced on Tuesday night was unprecedented. Dunoon Pier, for which the Hafton Trustees want £30,000 from the Commissioners, has suffered to a large extent, the waiting-rooms and offices being completely gutted, while part of the gangway has been torn away, rendering vehicular traffic impossible. A little beyond the pier there is a gap of twenty feet in the new esplanade wall, while the earthwork has been washed away as far back as the old breast wall, thus leaving an ugly hole in the roadway. The West Bay Esplanade is total wreck, and the lawns in front of the villas present a pitiable spectacle, being filled with wreckage of every description. Not a vestige of the fine copestone and railing erected in front of the West Bay Terrace now exists, and the damage done to property is enormous. The road along the East Bay shore is terribly cut up, and the sea wall has been greatly damaged. A yacht was sunk in the East Bay, and a smack was knocked into matchwood. All telegraphic communication has been cut off. It has been agreed to close up the East and West Bays against traffic, and the surveyor has been instructed to take in estimates for the repairs.”—Greenock Telegraph, October 15, 1891

“Dunoon Police Commission. (by Telegraph.)—At a monthly meeting of this Board, held last night—Provost Mackay presiding —a letter was read from Messrs Skene, Edwards, & Garston, Edinburgh, that, in accordance with the request of the Commissioners, the Hafton Trustees had agreed to issue season tickets for Dunoon Pier at the following rates £1 for one year, 14s for six months, and 3s for one month. It was agreed to ask the Hafton Trustees to reconsider the matter, as the charges made for six months and one month were of no benefit to visitors.”—Glasgow Evening Post, May 10, 1892

Agreement was reached in 1895 when the Commissioners obtained Parliamentary permission to make a new pier at Dunoon and to purchase the existing pier for £27,000. “There would be ample revenue from the pier to secure the whole of the money authorised to be borrowed—viz.; £40,000, and it would not be necessary to come upon the rates at all. The net revenue from the pier and other property purchased with it was £2,500, and the estimated amount to pay interest and to provide sinking fund was £1,600 a year.”— Glasgow Herald, June 29, 1895

The new construction was south of the old pier, which it would incorporate, to give 440 ft of additional accommodation, sufficient to accommodate two or three large Clyde steamers. Steamer owners were exempt from dues for 10 years but would be charged thereafter.

It was on June 3, 1898 that the new pier was officially opened. The contract was awarded to Messrs James Watson of Glasgow and work began in February 1896. While the new structure that reached out farther into the Firth was under construction, the old pier was in operation. As the new pier progressed it became difficult for the larger steamers such as Columba to berth and for a brief period she did not call. The final step was the extension of the old pier, now used primarily for goods traffic to join with the new pier.

“Opening of new pier at Dunoon. The new pier at Dunoon was formally opened yesterday afternoon by Lord and Lady Malcolm of Poltailoch, amidst every manifestation of rejoicing on the part of the inhabitants, who naturally looked upon the occasion one of the most important in their burgh’s history. The town was gaily decorated with bunting. The pier itself presented pretty appearance, streamers in rainbow fashion being carried across at various points; while an effective display was also made in front of the Castle Gardens. The afternoon was observed as a holiday by the shopkeepers. There was also a large influx of visitors from the neighbouring coast towns, while a numerous company was present from Glasgow. Unfortunately the weather was moat unpropitious, rain falling in torrents when the proceedings commenced. The new pier is both substantial and commodious, yet withal pretty. It is now fully two years since the present scheme was entered upon, the Burgh Commissioners in 1895 having purchased the old pier from the Hafton trustees for £27,000. The work of improvement and extension was, after considerable discussion, finally agreed upon. Operations were commenced in February, 1896, and despite many difficulties the work is now practically finished. The main part of the old pier has been kept intact, the new section having been joined at the westward. The structure has also been carried out another 60 feet, which now gives a frontage of 311 feet, with accommodation for three steamers. Commodious waiting-rooms have been erected and fitted up in a handsome manner. There are two gangways leading to the shore, where a new broad road has just been made, and which was also formally opened yesterday. The scheme, although costly (the whole work is estimated at £20,000), is sure to prove a great boon to the town. The opening ceremony was timed to begin 2.30, and shortly after then Lord and Lsdy Malcolm arrived from Benmore in their steam yacht Lutra. Provost Doig, the Magistrates, Commissioners, and guests had assembled on the pier from the old gangway, and when Lord and Lady Malcolm stepped on shore the volunteer corps in attendance gave a general salute, while the Castle guns also fired a salvo. His Lordship having been received by the Provost, Lady Malcolm was presented with a handsome bouquet by Miss Polly Scott Doig. Lord Malcolm (who wore top-boots and an oilskin coat) then inspected the various waiting-rooms along with Lady Malcolm, and was followed by a large and brilliant gathering of ladies and gentlemen. A procession was then formed, and Lord and Lady Malcolm, along with Provost Doig, and preceded by the pipe band of the Argyll and Bute Highlanders playing Poltalloch House, promenaded to the shore end of the pier. Here Mr Maton, piermaster, gave the key of the gate to the Provost, who in turn handed it to Lady Malcolm, and her Ladyship having opened the gate the whole company passed through to a large platform which had been erected in front of the new public road. Here a halt was made, and the Provost, Lord and Lady Malcolm, and a number of having ascended the platform, the formal opening took place, and several speeches were made. The Provost, in introducing Lord Malcolm to declare the pier open, expressed the indebtedness of the inhabitants at the high his lordship had done them coming there that day, and their pleasure at having in their midst Lady Malcolm. Lord Malcolm received a warm reception. He congratulated the people of Dunoon on the completion of their excellent pier, and expressed his admiration of it and its surroundings. It was indeed, he said, a great credit to the town that they had now the pier in their own hands, and he was sure it would be appreciated by the inhabitants as well as future generations. His lordship declared the pier open, amidst loud applause, after which a photograph was taken of the platform. Treasurer Anderson, convener of the Pier Committee, then presented a gold key to Lady Malcolm, remarking, amidst laughter, that it had one quality that was not possessed by any other connected with the pier —it would not open the gate on Sundays. He afterwards gave an interesting resumé of the history of the scheme. The contractor for the new road, Mr Alexander Stark, having been introduced by Bailie Howitt (convener of the Roads Committee), presented Lady Malcolm with a pair of gold scissors, with which her ladyship out the ribbon of Poltalloch tartan that stretched across the road. The new thoroughfare was christened Tom-na-Bhoid Road.” Lord Malcolm, in returning thanks for handsome gifts presented to her ladyship, said it had given them extreme satisfaction to be with them on that red-letter day. On the motion of ex-Bailie Tannock, ringing cheers were given for Lord and Lady Malcolm, and a vote of thanks having been awarded Provost Doig (on the call of Mr W. Peacock-Edwards), the proceedings terminated. The gates the new pier were then thrown open and the public invited to inspect their new property. The invited company afterwards proceeded to the Castle Gardens, where cake and wine were served in a large marquee. Pleasing music was rendered at intervals by the band the Clyde training ship Empress and also by the pipers. As the afternoon wore on the air cleared somewhat, and the sun coming out, the latter part of the proceedings were thoroughly enjoyed.”—Greenock Telegraph, June 4,1898

Overlooking the pier from the Castle Rock was the statue of Highland Mary, erected in 1896 to commemorate the connection with Burns.

Castle Hill Dunoon (Davidson)

The new Dunoon Pier

Kenilworth and Caledonia at Dunoon Pier (Ritchie)

Highland Mary Statue (Davidson)

Iona at Dunoon Pier (Ritchie)

Dunoon pier from a steamer

On Dunoon Pier with a view of the signal tower

On Dunoon Pier

Mars leaving Dunoon (Ritchie)

Dunoon Pier

Marchioness of Lorne arriving (Forsyth)

Reference is made to the opening of the pier on Sunday. At the time, the town was in dispute with the Sunday excursionists. An account of the scenes that this entailed at Dunoon is presented in a previous article.

Pierhead

Pierhead (Ritchie)

The new Esplanade at the pier

Pierhead with building plant for the Coal Pier in the background (Davidson)

Cows at the pierhead

There were other projects also at this busy time for the Burgh.

“Dunoon Pavilion Scheme. Decision of Town Council—(From Our Own Correspondent.) Dunoon, Wednesday.—The Town Council agreed last night by six votes four to erect a pavilion for 4,000 people on a site the foot Church Brae, the minority in favour of taking a plebiscite before on the scheme. The estimated cost is £6,000. The work is be completed June, under penalty of £25 per week. It was also agreed to advertise for a manager for the Castle Gardens.”—Greenock Telegraph, December 14, 1904

Dunoon Pavillion was opened in on August 17, 1905 by Princess Louise, accompanied by the Duke of Argyll.

Dunoon Pavillion (Ritchie)

Dunoon Pavillion (Davidson)

Concert in Castle Gardens

Concert in Castle Gardens (Ritchie)

Concert in Castle Gardens (Davidson)

Dunoon from the pier

Further developments involved improvements to the east bay esplanade and a proposal to construct a harbour. This latter proposal was abandoned, although one arm, the coal pier was built.

“Dunoon harbour scheme abandoned.—Dunoon, Saturday.—Considerable surprise has been created in Dunoon today by the abandonment of the proposed harbour and curtailment of the esplanade scheme. The first portion of the work to Moir Street is nearing completion, and the council agreed to carry it to the pier, a distance of about 500 yards, with a harbour leg at Barren Rocks. The feuars in the vicinity object to a harbour in front of their feus, and as the harbour leg comes in their direction they refuse to sell their foreshore rights unless the Town Council gives an undertaking not to erect a harbour there.

“At a special meeting of the Town Council last night the deadlock was explained, but as the necessary two-thirds majority to append the Standing Orders could not be obtained, it has been decided to abandon the harbour and the extension of the esplanade to the pier.”—Greenock Telegraph, July 29, 1905.

Despite the objections the esplanade and the scaled-back harbour pier were completed the following year.

“Opening of Dunoon’s new esplanade.—At Dunoon yesterday the new East Bay Esplanade was opened by the Right Hon. Thomas Shaw, K.C., M.P., Lord Advocate. The Esplanade extends from Dunoon pier to Kirn pier, and a splendid roadway is provided for vehicular traffic, the minimum width being increased from sixteen to sixty feet. In conjunction with West Bay Esplanade, the new Esplanade gives a magnificent promenade almost two miles in length. The work occupied about eighteen months. The scheme, including the formation of recreation ground, erection of a harbour jetty, &c., is estimated to cost about £40,000. Prior to the opening ceremony, the Lord Advocate and Mrs Shaw were entertained luncheon in the Argyll Hotel, Provost Warner presiding over a representative company. The ceremony was witnessed by a large number of spectators, and was favoured with excellent weather.

“Mr Shaw, who was introduced by Provost Warner, said it gave him great pleasure to come to Dunoon on that occasion, which was one of much interest to the town, and he had to congratulate Dunoon upon the opening of this magnificent Esplanade. The scheme just completed was an enterprise of which any community might well be proud. Dunoon was an ideal community. They had progress in finance, in population, prosperity, acting and reacting along with the energy, enterprise, and public spirit of a first-rate municipality. In conclusion, Mr Shaw congratulated the Town Council upon the enterprise and public spirit they were showing in carrying out these improvements.

“Mr R. M‘Alpine, in name of the contractors presented Mrs Shaw with a silver rose bowl and gold scissors as mementoes of the occasion. Mrs Shaw having cut the ribbon stretched across the road, declared the Esplanade open. Thereafter a concert was given in the Castle Garden, tea being served to invited guests the pavilion.”—Greenock Telegraph, September 1, 1906.

East Bay Esplanade (Ritchie)

  Coal Pier and East Bay (Ritchie)

The years leading up to the first world war were perhaps the high point for visitors to Dunoon. The main thoroughfare, Argyll Street, dominated at one end by the Argyll Hotel, was reached from the pier by Pier Road.

Pier Road and Pavillion

Pier Road

Pier Road

Parish Church from Esplanade (Judges)

Argyll Hotel and Argyll Street (Ritchie)

Argyll Street from Ferry Brae (Schwarzendruber)

Argyll Street (Schwarzendruber)

Argyll Street

Argyll Street

The pier was the focal point for the visitor, with the hustle and bustle of steamers from the various companies that vied for traffic.

Cargo steamers at Dunoon Pier (Davidson)

Isle of Arran coming arriving at the pier

For a few seasons, water polo was in vogue and matches were held in the enclosed waters of the pier.

Ivanhoe at the pier with a water-polo match in progress (Davidson)

Ivanhoe and Kenilworth

After the first world war, Dunoon retained its popularity but the steamer fleets were consolidated and the trade depression of the following decades had an impact.

Dunoon Pavilion and War Memorial (Judges)

Duchess of Fife approaching the pier around 1922

Eagle III at the pier in 1924

The pier in 1925 (Valentine)

Argyll Street in the 1920s

Touring coaches and charabancs could be found on the esplanade.

Coaches and charabancs on the esplanade

East Bay Esplanade

The coal pier around 1930 (Judges)

The last year of the first world war had marked a half-century of the growth of Dunoon as a Burgh but Jubilee celebrations seemed inappropriate at that time. They were postponed until 1928 when the Civic Week celebrated the diamond jubilee.

On the afternoon of Monday, the 10th of September, a carnival parade with gaily decorated motor cars and motor ’buses, and cycles assembled in the Castle Gardens and afterwards proceeded through the streets of the town headed by Larkhall Brass Band.  The leading award went to an A.B.C. bus transformed into a thatched cottage.

Larkhall Band leading the Civic Week Parade

Silver line coach in the Civic Week Parade

Dunoon Gas-works float

Dunoon Zoo

During the 1930s, the West Bay Promenade that was frequently damaged by storms was improved and a bathing Lido was constructed.

West Bay beach around 1930

West Bay beach (Valentine)

West Bay Promenade

The new promenade on West Bay

Bathing Lido on West Bay

The new pier had added much to the prosperity of Dunoon. The pier buildings were augmented with a promenade balcony in 1937.

Dunoon Pier with promenade balcony in 1937 (Valentine)

The Cowal Highland Games had begun in 1894 and by 1950 was famous throughout the world.

Tossing the caber at Cowal Games

Pipe band competition at Cowal Games

The coming of the car ferries in the 1950s signaled a decline and by 2010, the pier structure was considered unsafe. It awaits renovation.

Jupiter approaching the pier around 1950 (Alfred Holmes)

Car ferry Cowal leaving the pier with Queen Mary II in the distance and the bow of Waverley

Photographs of Dunoon can also be found in articles on Laing, who worked in the late 1860s and M‘Geachie who worked in the 1900s through the 1920s.

McCrorie, Ian, Dunoon Pier—a celebration, Argyll Publishing, Glendaruel, 1997.

Dunoon Civic Week Brochure, Dunoon, 1928.