In the mid-Victorian era, Thomas Laing ran a photographic studio at Dunoon midway between the Pier and the Argyll Hotel.  In addition to the usual personal and family portraits he took photographs of the town and its surrounding area.  A number of these photographic views were turned into engravings and published in Colegate’s Guide to Dunoon in 1868, helping to provide an approximate date for the material.  John Colegate was a bookseller and ran a library in Hafton Place.  Excerpts of his guide are included here to provide a context for the photographs.

Laing’s Photographic Studio in the shadow of the Parish Church

Advert for Laing’s in 1868

In 1868, Dunoon was well equipped for visitors who were interested in sea bathing.  The list of Hotels is:—The Argyll (the principal hotel),—Mrs. Thomson, The Crown,—Mrs. Walker, The Douglas,—Mrs. Douglas, Clark’s Temperance,—Mr. John Clark, The George,—Mr. Riddel, The Eagle,—Mr. L. Colville, The Wellington,—Mr. T. Ramsay, Dunoon is very well supplied with hotels, at any of which good accommodation may be had at moderate charges; private apartments can also be obtained at any of them.

 

Argyll Hotel

In addition there were lodgings and houses to take for the season.  “There are numerous houses where private apartments, with attendance, can be obtained, at charges varying according to situation. The greater number of visitors, however, find accommodation either in houses which they have built for themselves, or by renting furnished houses, of which there is ample choice.”

Excursions from Dunoon in 1868

Chancellor at Blairmore

Regular calls by steamboats provided a number of excursions from the pier where Mr. A. Cameron was the pier master.  “There is a Pier for landing in Dunoon at all states of the tide. It was erected about thirty-five years ago by a joint-stock company, and extends about 130 yards into about 4½ fathoms of water. It has, however, been recently purchased by James Hunter, Esq., of Hafton, and considerably enlarged, with every convenience for passenger and goods traffic. Passengers are charged one penny each, and goods according to a scale of dues. Luggage delivered and conveyed by pier-porters at moderate charges.

“There is also, in connection with the pier, the ferry to Cloch Light House, available at all times. Fares,—single passenger, 2s.; or four, 6d. each. Extra charge after sunset.”

There was also the possibility of an excursion on the Inveraray Omnibus that left after the arrival of the Iona at 9:30.  The excursion did not allow time to cross Loch Fyne but passengers could leave the Omnibus at Whistlefield and walk the 5 miles over the hill to Ardentinny where they could return in the Arrochar steamer.

Dunoon East Bay and Pier

“Description of Dunoon

“How many ramble over the Continent and explore the Rhine, the Rhone, and the Elbe, leaving unvisited the Clyde, one of the finest rivers in the world. Let those who have yet that pleasure in prospective, and wish to see it to advantage, when time and opportunity offer, repair to Dunoon—the most delightful of watering-places.

“In the following pages we shall endeavour to assist the visitor with such information regarding that favourite spot, and the other neighbouring localities, as our limited space will admit.

“Dunoon is situated on the western bank of the Frith of Clyde, midway between Hunter’s Quay and Innellan, and extends about three miles westward of Holy Loch, along the coast. It is said to have derived its name from a hill, known as “Castle Hill,” which, being remarkably verdant during the greater part of the year, obtained for itself its former Gaelic name of Dun-uaine, which signifies Green hill, and has probably been corrupted into its present name of Dunoon.

“Dunoon, in one long line of beauty, extends for miles along that sunny shore, clustering in one picturesque mass behind the Castle Hill and around the Church, the central features of the picture, and shooting out on either side its far stretching arms by the Kirn to the Holy Loch, and by West Bay towards Innellan. Not many years ago it was but a small decayed village. It is now the most wide-spreading and prosperous of the numerous watering-places on the Frith of Clyde, being in some degree indebted for this elevation into importance to the late James Ewing, Esq. of Strathleven, who built an imposing mansion on the mount near the Castle, which is now enclosed within the grounds. Modern Dunoon, it must be allowed, however, has been called into existence by the genius of steam. So recently as 1822, there were only some three or four slated houses in the village—all the others were mere Highland cottages. Mr. Ewing, in making improvements around his residence, cleared away a whole street, characteristically called the Black Street.”

East Bay looking to Kirn

“While the town itself began to increase, smaller townships of villas sprang up along the coast in the vicinity, with the distinctive names or Kirn and Hunter’s Quay, both of which are now embraced within the general name of Dunoon. Anyone, therefore, desirous of taking up his abode at Dunoon, has the choice of a triple series of villas, possessing different characters with regard to their respective situations. The villas at Dunoon proper and Kirn may be said to be the most lively and convenient; those at Hunter’s Quay most retired. And then, as regards bathing ground, the West Bay of Dunoon is unsurpassed, while the beach at Kirn and Hunter’s Quay is somewhat rocky; but, when cleared of obstructions, forming a beautiful line of light as seen from the deck of a steamer.

“A considerable number of families from Glasgow and other places migrate regularly to Dunoon during the summer months; and nowhere better could the man of business participate in healthful recreations; or, free from the anxieties of business, the stimulating pleasures of fashion, and the conventional restraints of society, find repose by the sea-shore. To the lover of nature, what an inexhaustible field is here! Those even who have no scientific tastes or acquirements may be gratified, if not instructed, by the grandeur of the storm or the peaceful calm. The scenery around, whether looked upon through the glowing hues of the rising or the setting sun, or by the light of the silvery moon and stars, is ever beautiful; but if seen when the waters are shining in phosphoric light, making darkness visible, cannot fail to supply more than ordinary emotions of pleasure and astonishment. In the month of June, in consequence of the almost total absence of night, the Times newspaper may be read in open air at midnight—a phenomenon which excites the surprise of visitors from the south of England who happen to have the privilege of an evening promenade on the banks of the Clyde, instead of the Thames.

“The Castle Hill is the most interesting, and, at the same time, the most commanding position in the neighbourhood. This hill is a cone shaped green mound (about eighty feet in height), which shoots abruptly up from the beach—here somewhat rocky with the ruins of a castle on its summit. From this hill a magnificent prospect is obtained. Looking up the Frith we have, extending along the shore, the snowy white villas of East Bay and Kirn, with Strone, Ardmore, the mouths of Holy Loch, Loch Long, and the Port-Glasgow hills in the distance. On the opposite shore of the Frith extend the Renfrewshire and Ayrshire hills, with Greenock, Gourock, the Cloch, Inverkip, and the Bay of Largs, at various points along the shore. Down the Frith, on the west side of Dunoon, stretches the sunny curve of the West Bay, and, far beyond, the Isle of Bute, the two Cumbraes, and Arran, Ailsa Craig appearing faintly in the distance. The circle of scenery commanded by the Castle Hill is indeed one of vast extent and extreme beauty.”

Hafton House, Dunoon

“Close to the ancient Castle is the modern Castle of Dunoon, an elegant mansion, surrounded by aged trees, the property of Robert Eglinton, Esq.; near it is Lismore Lodge, a pretty villa, belonging to H. E. C. Ewing, Esq., M.P. for Paisley. Milton House, the property of John M’Arthur Moir, Esq., the Superior of most of the ground on which Dunoon is built, stands on the rising ground overlooking the village, commanding an extensive view.”

Argyll Street

“The principal street in Dunoon is Argyll Street; and here all the Banks, best Hotels, and Shops, are situated. The principal villas are clustered along the shore of the West Bay, and further upwards on the road leading to the Scottish Episcopal Church. The West Bay terminates at Baugie Bum, and here commences the Bull Wood.

The Episcopal Church where H. G. Pirie was minister in 1868

“If it were required to name one part of Dunoon more distinguished for beauty than another, there are few who would not agree in selecting the Bull Wood.”

Dunoon West Bay from the Bull Wood

“The shore runs steeply backwards, until it is merged in lofty hills, slightly cultivated in the lower parts, but for the most part wild and heathery, and broken by numerous ravines, down which rush wild mountain torrents. The Bull “Wood” itself is a thick plantation which clothes the shore, and from the midst of which peer numerous elegant villas in varied styles of architecture. Pre-eminent among them, both for situation and architecture; is Ardhallow, a lovely villa in the Italian style, built by the late Mr. M’Cunn of Greenock; vieing in elegance and beauty with it, and possessing their own peculiar charms, are Ardmhor ( Mr. Readman), Glenmorag, with pretty glen and artificial ruin (Mr. W. Malcolm), Ardfillayne (Prof. R. Buchanan), Dunfillan(Mr. John Thomson), Ardenlee (Mr. M’Intosh), Fearan-Coille (Mr. Steven), Sgor-Bheann (Mr. Lockett), Garail House (Miss Patten), Hoop House (Mr. John Patten), Torr Aluin (Mr. F. Powell), Buthkollidar (Mr. Manifold), with many others, all bearing the original Gaelic names of the spots on which they are built, and surrounded by lovely grounds and gardens, radiant with dowers, whose perfume fills the air.”

The main reason visitors came to Dunoon was for sea bathing.  Most of the villas had their own private bathing grounds or boxes on the beach. While the best bathing place for ladies was the West Bay, gentlemen were encouraged to bathe at the rocks at the foot of Castle Hill, which was deep at all states of the tide or at the rocks behind Argyle Hotel, only at high water. If shallower and sandy conditions were preferred, gentlemen could bathe beyond Baugie Burn at the beginning of Bull Wood, shallow and sandy. Kirn Pier and Hunter’s Quay, also provided deep water bathing.